THE WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS 



THE 



WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS, 



LIFE AT THE SPRINGS 



WliTllSiF!!! WIlKeniMllA 



By mark pencil, Esa. 

NEW-YORK: 

IPUBLISHED BY SAMUEL COLMAN, 

VIII ASTOE HOUSE. 

1839. 



Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by 
S. COLMAN, 
In tlie Clerk's Office of the District of the United States, for the Southern 
District of New-York. 



>N 



u?- 



New -York: 

Printed by William 3Iolineux, 

Cor. of Ann and Nassau-st. 



TO 

JAMES CALWELL, ESQ. 

OF GREENBRIAR, 
THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, BY 

THE AUTHOR. 



MESSENGER. 

Information, it has been said, is generally best received 
when it comes in a pleasing form. In guidance of this 
passing idea, this book has been written. 

It has been estimated, that more than six thousand 
persons visited the various mineral springs of Western 
Virginia during the last summer months ; and it is not 
improbable that as many, or more, will repair to them 
in each coming year. To meet, in a measure, the gene- 
ral wish so often expressed, for some descriptive guide 
of the localities and attractions of that celebrated region 
of country, this volume has been prepared, without pre- 
tence; but the Author claims one merit for the book, 
which is faithfulness in description. 

Road-Side, 1839. 



CONTENTS. 



Chap. I. 

Page 



Warm Spring Mountain ; Warm Springs ; Hot Springs ; 
Callaghans 



Chap. II. 
White Sulphur Springs ; topography of the place - 21 

Chap. III. 

White Sulphur; Amusements; early discovery ; Bare- 
ges, &c. --.-.... 27 

Chap. IV. 
White Sulphur; Society; Pic Nic, &c. - - . 37 



X CONTENTS. 

Chap. V. 

Page 

Ride to the Sweet Springs, Sweet Springs - - 45 

Chap IV. 

Deer Hunt at the White Sulphur; Lewisburg; Bridge 
of Sighs, &c. - 54 

Chap. VIL 

Salt Sulphur; Red Sulphur; Grey Sulphur; Blue Sul- 



plur; 



60 



Chap. VIII. 
Autumns in the Mountains, 66 

Chap. IX. 
Journal of a Lady during a season at the White Sul- 



phur 



76 



Chap. X. 
The Story of a Crutch— Scene Hot Springs, - .119 

Chap. XI. 
Beaver-Dam Falls; Maid of the Cascade, - -126 



CONTENTS. xi 

Chap. XII. 



Page 

Sketches of Character, - - . . . . jgg 



Appendix, -.- 



WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 



CHAP. I. 

TRAVELLING IN THE UNITED STATES WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN 

WARM SPRINGS HOT SPRINGS CALLAGHAN's. 



O tell me not of other skies ! 
The charms that foreign landscapes wear ; 
Within our own bright borders rise — 
Hills and scenes as grand — as fair. 



Summer in the United States is the season for 
travel, and it is then when all, whom inclination 
may lead and convenience will permit, are in motion 
for some quarter where health and recreation are 
the chief attractions for the journey; or where plea- 
sure has erected the temple of fashion. Fortu- 
nately, our dear country is very large, and the places 
of resort are numerous where every taste can be gra- 
tified ; but, in no section of the Union are all the in- 
centives to an excursion from home more admirably 
concentrated than among the mineral springs of 
Western Virginia, and thither we were bound, like 
many others in midsummer, determined to make our 
head-quarters at the White Sulphur. 
2 



14 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

We had been travelling for two days, from the 
time we left the landing near Frederickburgh, upor 
the usual route for travellers from the north, coming 
from Washington, we had passed by Orange court 
house, Charlottesville, in sight of Monticello, and 
through Standton, and had become well initiated 
into all the modes of Virginia travel and road ac- 
commodations, of neither of which we had found 
any cause to complain, but which, on the contrary, 
had afforded us much reason for being satisfied. 

We had left the last peaks of the Blue Ridge far 
behind us, and a few hour's further ride, brought us 
to the foot of the far-famed Warm Spring Moun- 
tain, whose frowning tops had been before us for 
some hours. We here descended from the stage. 
preferring to make our way on foot ; leaving the 
driver to follow with his horses at his leisure. 

As the traveller approaches the mountain, he be- 
gins to surmise how or in what manner he shall ever 
be able to surmount this broad barrier of the Alle- 
gany, which rises up before him to dispute his pas- 
sage. The ascent to the top is about two miles, 
over a narrow, well-beaten road, which, rismg gra- 
dually, edges around the body of the mountain like a 
great winding stairway. It was early in the morn- 
ing, the sun had but just risen, and, with elastic steps, 
we commenced the ascent; stopping ever and anon 
to admire the verdant glories which broke upon us in 



WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN. 15 

some new scene at every turn. The road on one 
hand was studded with lofty trees, overlooking the 
precipices below, whilst copse wood and numerous 
masses of ill-shapen stone on the other hung over 
our heads, threatening to stop our progress at every 
moment. The dew was still upon the green leaves, 
and we inhaled the freshness of the abundant and 
luxuriant wild flowers blooming along our path. 

Among our party, in advance of the rest, were 
two foreigners ; an English baronet from Bermuda, 

and the Chevalier L , a resident minister in the 

United States. The chevalier had been over the 
hills of Tyrol, and among the dofrafiels of Norway, 
and his heart expanded as he described to us the 
similarity of the picturesque scenery we were now 
traversing to the romantic beauties of the faderland. 

We reached the point where the road crosses the 
summit, called the mountain-pass, and paused awhile 
to take a survey of the prospect we had left behind 
us. A cool refreshing breeze sprang up to meet us, 
and water from the hands of the old man at the 
mountain hut gave us new life and vigor : we were 
directed to a path which led to a higher eminence, 
where the finest view it was supposed could be had 
of the surrounding scenery. 

We stood upon a rock, where a white flag was 
waving. It overlooked every thing within range 



16 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, 

of several miles. We looked on for some moments 
in silence, not even whispering our admiration. 
Beneath us, as far as the eye could reach, a vast 
amphitheatre of hills were rising one above the other, 
looking, in their uneven surface, like the dashing 
waves of a troubled sea in their fury. We fancied 
we could hear the roaring of the distant waters. 
And then again we saw the blue heavens seemingly 
resting upon the long-continued ranges of the same 
line where we stood. It looked to us — the abyss 
below — like a gi'eat crater formed by some revolu- 
tion of nature, into which mountain on mountain had 
been thrown by some supernatural power to fill up 
the great chasm of earth. 

The hour, and the day, (it was Sunday,) filled us 
with gi'eat reverence for all things around us. There 
was no water view, which makes the life of seaboard 
landscapes, but all was reposing in silent solemn 
gi'andeur as it had been for unnumbered ages. 

Who has ever been among these mountains and 
given their picture to the world? Save in the stray 
leaf of some traveller's portfolio, they have never 
been written down. This is the land where our 
poets and our artists should come, and see the ma- 
jestyof nature as it is in our own soil. 

What would have been the imaginings of the im- 
passioned Roscoe at a scene like this. With what 
eloquence he could have pictured it ! 



WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN. 17 

Where is that master-spirit of our own age, whose 
wand waved over the ruins of the Alhambra and 
brought forth its buried images of romance ? Has 
he never been here? to change those tow^ering piles 
of blackest rock, now shading all around us, into 
castles and fortresses, and people this solitude with 
his giants, and his knights, and his sceptred visions 
of antiquity ! 

Far below us, on one hand, we descried, in the 
narrow streak like a white pencil-mark, the v^^inding 
road by which we had ascended. At our feet, on 
the other side, were the shining roofs of the cabins 
and bath-houses at the Warm Springs, where we 
were to remain a short while and revel, if we pleased, 
in the most luxurious of baths. 

The sound of the horn called us again to the 
stage ; and we were whirled down the steep to the 
base of the mountain with incredible velocity. 

The drivers of the stages in this part of the 
country (mostly young men) are very active and 
expert, and will wind a six-horse team round the 
shortest curves of the mountains with the same skill 
and ease as a Broadway whip will turn a phaeton. 

"A merry welcome to you, gentlemen," said the 

pleasant landlord, as we reined up before the door 

of the hotel at the Warm Springs, where a fine 

breakfast was waiting for us. And then we did 

2* 



18 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

justice to Mr. Fry in every shape: we made our 
respects to the fried venison, the fried fish, and the 
fried chicken; so very poHte had the morning air 
made us. 

On each plate at table was a card, wdth the visi- 
ter's name^ut a beginning of the novelties of this 
region to some of us. We were weighed in the 
patent scale that stands in the colonnade, which 
runs the whole length of the main building here, 
somewhat after the fashion of the hotels at Sara- 
toga. A drawing room and ball-room are on the 
same floor with the dining-room. 

This place is chiefly celebrated for its delightful 
warm bath, and its waters are very efficacious for 
chronic diseases. The company here is the largest 
late in the season, when the visiters are returning 
from the other springs. 

We went to the bath. Luxury of all luxuries ! 
It is worth a pilgrimage of many miles to bathe in 
this delightful stream. The bath, over which is a 
wooden building in the form of an octagon, is about 
forty feet in diameter, large enough for fifty persons 
at a time; the water rises from the bottom to the 
depth of five feet, in a warm state of about 97 de- 
grees Farenheit; but it has that peculiar tempera- 
ture which no other water, by artificial means, can 
be made exactly to attain. The sensations while 



WARM SPRINGS. 19 

bathing are most delicious ; the water is so soft, and 
it plays in a most affectionate manner against the 
body, if I may use the expression. All the most 
glowing descriptions which have been given of the 
baths of Constantinople, and elsewhere, fall short in 
comparison with the actual enjoyment of a bath 
here ; w^hich is sufficient to dispel the most obstinate 
disease of ennui or hypo. 

Some persons have fanciful notions as to their 
mode of entering a bath, and their manner of equip- 
ment. 

One young gentleman from the north, who had 
been here before, had a complete dress made after 
his own order — a loose gown to throw on and 
throw off, Turkish sKppers, and ornamental cap, &c. 
He said it was more in keeping with the spirit of 
the ancients, for w^hose customs he had great re- 
spect. 

The spring where invalids go to drink the water, 
which bubbles up from a little square rustic basin, 
is in the grove, not far from the bath-house, and 
covered by a little shed. The water is too warm 
to be pleasant to persons in the flush of health ; but 
it is said to act well on the system. 

Several little fountains of the same description 
are oozing up around about. It was here in the 
shade of these elms, that the sage of Monticello 



^0 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

was wont to spend so much of his time ; and the 
cabin is near by which he long occupied. 

A party were playing at nine-pins, on the green, 
the principal amusement here, (besides bathing;) 
and others were diverting themselves with quoits. 

We left the Warm Springs, intending to return 
again, at some day, on our way homeward. This 
is the place where the company meet on the wind- 
ing up of the season ; friendships, begun elsewhere, 
are here cemented ; promises to write are made ; and 
maidens here take leave of their lovers. There are 
many bright recollections about the Warm Springs. 

Six miles beyond the Warm, we came to the Hot 
Springs. " I will get out here," says the invalid. 

"I will leave this place as quickly as posssible," 
says the man of pleasure, " for I will not look at the 
halt and the lame. " 

These springs are much celebrated for their hot 
baths, so beneficial for persons far gone in strength, 
and deeply affected with rheumatic affections, con- 
tusions, broken limbs, &c. Many wonderful cures 
are performed here. The days of many a poor man 
have been lengthened, if not made happier, by re- 
covery. 

I saw a United States Senator who had left Wash- 
ington a few weeks before in a very low state of 
health ; he was now convalescent, and able to bear 
the fatigues of a journey home to the South. 



HOT SPRING. 21 

s 

The piazzas of the hotels were filled with inva- 
lids, like those in front of a marine hospital I have 
somewhere seen. Some were limping; some were 
on crutches ; and some were wheeled about like 
children. 

At a little distance, walking in the shade of the 
trees, we observed a very infirm old gentleman on 
the arm of a young lady; some faithful daughter, 
we imagined, tending on an aged parent. 

There are several baths here of different temper- 
atures — the spout-bath, the boiler, and the pleasure- 
bath. 

The proprietor, a physician, is said to be a hu- 
mane and attentive person, and is making extensive 
improvements each year. 

We stopped once more on our road, at Calla- 
ghan's, a great breakfasting house, thirteen miles 
this side of the White Sulphur, at the interjunction 
of several mail routes. We were here very hospi- 
tably entertained by the facetious and obliging host, 
who never diflfers in opinion with his guests on any 
subject that's noifare. Dennis Callaghan, the father 
of the present proprietor, was immortalized by the 
author of Westward Ho ! long since. 

"On what side of the question are you, Mr. Calla- 
ghan ? " said one of us to him at parting. 



22 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

"Why, sir," said he, " I don't like to differ— Fm 
sure we don't — but how do you stand ? " 

"Why," said my friend, "I am Van Bur en — 
Anti-Sub-treasury — Administration — Ultra- Whig." 

"Well," said he, "Mr. Stranger, I am exactly 
where you are." 

In a few hours more, we came within the precincts 
of the White Sulphur. 



23 



CHAP. II. 



THE WHITE SULPHUR — TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PLACE. 



The white Sulphur Spring is in the county of Green- 
briar, western Virginia, embosomed in a beautiful 
valley, where the mountains recede on a sudden, 
forming at first an irregular opening, which at a 
little distance widens into an extensive plain. The 
main road runs direcdy through the valley, passing 
on one side the enclosure containing the spring am! 
the principal improvements ; then crossing the lon^' 
meadows and finally losing itself in the shade of th« 
mountain at the further end. 

When we arrived at the springs, the company 
were going to dinner, and all the walks and avenues 
leading from the different cabins were streaming 
with lively forms. A band of music was playing 
gaily in the portico of the dining hall ; and the whole 
face of things had the look of enchantment. It seem- 
ed to us travellers, arriving at such a time, as if the 
inhabitants of some fairy isle were turning out to 
welcome the coming of expected strangers. 



24 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

Our coach door was opened by Major Anderson, 
■who assigned to us our respective quarters. The la- 
dies of the party were escorted to Paradise Row, and 
the single gentlemen were sent some to Spring Row 
and others to Wolf Row, which latter place is re- 
served for bachelors, amateurs and philosophers. 

The grounds are laid out very prettily with gra- 
vel walks intersecting the green lawns, and the area 
is bordered on all sides by rows of neat cabins, some 
of them of a very attractive appearance. The whole 
looks like a well laid out little town. A countryman 
from the west, not long since, in passing by the 
springs late in October, when the place was quite 
deserted, was heard to remark, that he saw a great 
many houses in the village, but very few people. 

On the front square stands a large frame building 
containing the dining room, the pubHc room, and the 
offices. A portico runs the whole length of this edi- 
fice, forming a fine promenade in wet weather. 
Near to this in a similar building is the ball room, 
with lodging apartments above. 

Immediately in front of these, on the acclivity of 
the hill, which overlooks the plain, and sweeping 
round before you, is Alabama Row, which extends 
as far as the large centre building, where it is joined 
by Paradise Row, which has a similar range. The 
cabins which form these ranges are all built of brick, 



WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 25 

With little piazzas in front. Carolina Row, fronts 
the walk, from the spring, beyond which are, Balti- 
more — Virginia — and Georgia Rows. There are 
besides many beautiful cabins on various parts of 
the premises, which are reserved for private fami- 
lies, who spend their summers here. 

A new row of six ornamental veranda cottages 
has lately been erected on a line with Paradise Row, 
and four large brick buildings on the hill beyond, 
the latter being occupied by Carohneans. The ac- 
commodations are at present sufficient for six hun- 
dred persons. A large hotel is about being erected 
in the course of another year, which will accommo- 
date several hundred more. At present each fami- 
ly or party reside in a separate cabin, being lords 
of their own castles for the time being, which is per- 
haps the most preferable mode of living. 

The noble fountain is immediately in front of 
Spring Row, and can be seen from any part of the 
square. It is ornamented by a handsome dome, 
supported by twelve pillars, which is surmounted by 
a statue representing Hygeia. There are circular 
seats beneath, and the area is roomy enough for 
near one hundred persons seated and standing. 

The water flows in an octagonical basin about 
three feet and a half in depth, and gushes from an 
aperture in the white rocks, which line the sides of 
3 



26 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

the reservoir. It sparkles in the glass like liquid 
crystal, and it gives the frame of the invalid new 
vigor at every draught. 

It has a very strong smell of sulphur, and at first 
is not so pleasant to the taste, but after a fev^ days 
this is not perceptible by the visitor, and he becomes 
very fond of it, desiring no other beverage. It cures 
almost every disease ; for affections of the liver — 
and for dyspepsia of v^^hatever kind, it is peculiarly 
recommended. It produces the most enviable ap- 
petites — ^brings colour to the cheek — exliilirates the 
spirits, and lengthens life. 

The stream from the spring is very copious, and 
supplies the bath houses in the immediate vicinity. 
The old bath house has been removed within the 
last year, and a large and improved one, with dress- 
ing rooms and other conveniences, has been erected 
on the same site. 

Thus much for the topography of the White Sul- 
phur ; w^e will leave the reader at the spring,~pro- 
mising to chronicle in coming chapters, the amuse- 
ments and pleasures of this delightful place. 



27 



CHAP. III. 



WHITE SULPHUR AMUSEMENTS FIRST WHITE SETTLER- 



The season at the White Sulphur commences early 
in June; the most fashionable period is from the 
middle of July, till the second week in September, 
and during the month of August the gaiety is at its 
height. 

It was now late in July, and the place was throng- 
ing with visitors ; numbers daily not being able to 
gain admittance, were obliged to quarter in the 
neighbourhood, or turn off to some of the other 
springs, and there remain until they could be accom- 
modated. 

The amusements here are various, and the days 
go by very rapidly to those who are determined to 
enjoy themselves. 

In the morning before breakfast, the spring is the 
first resort, by all who wish to drink the waters and 
exchange the salutations of the day. This is an ex- 
citing time, and for one hour, the whole area around 



28 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

the spring is crowded with the old, the young, the 
gay, and the invaUd. 

At eight o'clock comes breakfast, w^hen the tables 
are plentifully supplied with the best bread ever 
baked, and all the other necessaries to anticipate the 
finest appetites. 

After breakfast, the company disperse in various 
ways — some to their cabins, to prepare for visitors,^ 
and for visiting — some to the drawing-room for mu- 
sic — some ride on horseback — some walk — parties 
are arranged for a dinner at Crow's — a pic-nic on 
theGreenbriar,or an excursion to Lewisburg. There 
is a very good store, w^here every thing can be 
bought — and many go shopping. Gentlemen who 
have nothing else to do, amuse themselves at whist 
— some play billiards — others exercise at nine pins, 
or with the gymnasium — and the hunters prepare 
lor a chase, and so passes the day until dinner time, 
all having made another visit to the spring at twelve 
o'clock, which is called the lounging hour. For the 
half hour preceding dinner, the band of music is per- 
forming in the portico. 

Dinner — this is an important period to a great 
many, the twenty sheep and beef slaughtered for 
that day are demolished with great sang f void, and 
a feed servant will place before you a fried chicken 
or some other dainty dish, which you will find very 



AMUSEMENTS. 29 

acceptable after six hours abstinence, particiilary if 
you have been down to the spring. 

There are twelve tables, each large enough lor 
fifty persons or more, on a squeeze, and all the plates 
being labelled, there is no confusion in coming to 
dinner about finding your place. There is no ne- 
cessity for being in a hurry, or getting into a pas- 
sion — a little patience, and you will not fail to be 
satisfied. 

The desert is abundant and very good, and but 
for the hurry and flurry of the servants,, you get 
through this meal very good humouredly. Little or 
no wine is drunk at dinner, one of the beneficial re- 
sults of the w^ater, and a very conclusive one. After 
dinner, the ladies generally repair to the drawing- 
room, where an hour or two is whiled away in 
conversation and music: there are always a great 
many ladies here who perform well, and this is one 
of the pleasantest hours of the day. Many who like 
the Spanish fashion, sleep an hour or two, after din- 
ner — then at five o'clock, the equipages arc brought 
out for those who may have them and like an even- 
ing drive, on the sweet spring road, or to the Green- 
briar bridge. A third general visiting is made to 
the spring during the evening, and from then until 
tea time, and till twilight, the whole grounds are in- 
terspersed with company, promenading, laughing, 



30 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

chatting, and many anticipating the coming plea- 
sures of the ball. 

The ball room is open every evening on week 
days, for a dance. It is a neat and appropriate 
room, and has been much enlarged of late. It is 
lighted by three handsome chandeliers, with a fine 
orchestra in the centre, and the music, a Baltimore 
band, is very fine. A piano is also part of the fur- 
niture, this is made the drawing-room during the day. 
After a great deal of dancing and w^altzing, the 
company generally break up by eleven o'clock, and 
so ends a day at the White Sulphur. 

On rainy days, ladies can have their meals fur- 
nished them very comfortably in their own cabins, 
though many of them prefer to come trippingly to 
the dining hall. 

Sunday is religiously observed here; divine ser- 
vice is performed, and the attendance on such occa- 
sions is always large and respectable. 

I joined the venerable proprietor of the Springs 
in one of his customary morning walks over the 
estate : a gentleman of the old school, and one 
whose urbane manner and kindness of heart, have 
gained him the respect and esteem of all who make 
his acquaintance. We walked through several 
large cultivated fields, some filled with vegetables^ 
of which a great supply is requisite here, and others 



FIRST SETTLER. 31 

were waving with ripening corn and wheat. Pass- 
ing through several green meadows more than a 
mile in length, we came round by the stabling es- 
tablishment, where over four hundred horses were 
well provided for. In an adjoining field were seve- 
ral blooded colts, and cattle of the Durham breed — 
the latter a present from Mr. Clay. The meadows 
and grounds are watered by many streams, and 
several sulphur springs rise in various parts of the 
land. Mountains extend all around, forming a fine 
defence against the storms and snows of winter ; 
and abound in deer, pheasants and other game. 

The first white settler in this part of the country, 
was a crazy man, who wandering from some of the 
lower counties, here fixed his abode in one of the 
rocky glens on Howard's Creek. The Indians hav- 
ing a superstitious dread of persons in his situation, 
were afraid to molest him, and even frequently sup- 
plied him with food. In the course of time other 
adventurers came — the Indians were driven off, and 
the country in the adjoining counties has been 
rapidly settling ever since. 

The valuable qualities of the waters of the White 
Sulphur Springs, first became known about twenty- 
five years ago, and its celebrity has been increasing 
ever since, until it has become a resort for persons 
irom all parts of the world. Its beneficial qualities 



32 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

are undeniably good for persons in all conditions of 
health. 

A Spanish gentleman who was here during the 
past summer, paid W'ho had travelled a great deal, 
and visited all the springs on the continent and in 
Germany, gave these waters the preference over 
all others. 

The notice of persons was first attracted to this 
spring by the quantities of deer which came to 
drink at the licks round about, formed by the over- 
flowing of the waters from the spring, which have 
since been drained off. 

The discovery of the celebrated Springs of Bare- 
ges, among the Pyrenees, is attributed to a sheep, 
which w^as observed to stray from its flock, and di- 
rect its course tow^ards them; when the people of 
the country soon became acquainted w-ith their effi- 
cacy. An English waiter thus speaks of these 
springs, whose waters are said in many respects to 
be analagous to those of the White Sulphur: 

"Bareges was not much frequented until Mad- 
ame de Maintenon being at Bagneres, on account 
of the health of the young Duke de Maine, and 
hearing of Bareges, took the Dulve thither. Since 
that, they have been greatly resorted to by invalids 
from all parts, especially by wounded military 
men. 



BAREGES. 33 

" The water is perfectly clear, and does not taste 
strongly of sulphur, but the smell is very decided. 
It is mineralized principally by the sulphuret of so- 
dium, but also contains carbonate of soda, a small 
quantity of sulphate and muriate of soda, azote, sul- 
pheretted hydrogen and glairine or animal matter. 
Taken internally, it often produces, like other sul- 
phurous waters, a degree of excitation, marked by 
acceleration of the pulse, perspiration more or less 
abundant, increased appetite, and sometimes sleep- 
lessness. It is not in general purgative, and even 
sometimes induces constipation, particularly when 
exclusively used for bathing — but is diuretic, dia- 
phoretic and expectorant. By its local or general 
stimulating properties, it cleanses foul ulcers, les- 
sens the induration of callous and fistulous sores — 
promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone 
and cicatrization. It is also highly efficacious in 
allaying bony pains, whether of a rheumatic nature, 
or arising from the wounds — in remedying the stiff"- 
ness and immobility of joints, when these symptoms 
depend upon tumefaction of the soft parts — in hem- 
orrhoidal affections, jaundice and chronic disorders, 
and especially long standing dysentery — in chronic 
syphilitic diseases, and those resulting from the use 
of mercury, dyspepsia, &c. The season begins on 
the first of June, and terminates in September." 



34 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

A young officer of the army, now stationed at 
Washington, remained the whole of the last season 
among the springs, the most of which time was 
spent at the White Sulphur, whither he had gone 
in a very feeble state of health, scarcely having the 
Use of liis limbs, and no one would now recognize 
the pale suffering invalid of that day, in his present 
flushed appearance and stout manly form. 

The temperature of the White Sulphur water is 
60 degrees Farenheit, and is the same during win- 
ter and summer. It is composed of the following 
ingredients; 

Sulphate of Soda. 

Sulphate of lime. 

Sulphate of magnesia* 

Carbonate of lime. 

Carbonate of magnesia. 

Chloride of Sodium. 

Chloride of Calcium. 

Pa. Oxyde of Iron. 

Sulp. Hydn. of Sodium. 
. Phosphate of lime. 

Organic matter. 

Precipitated sulphur. 

Gases. 

Sulph. Hydrogen. 

Carbonic acid. 

Nitrogen. 

Oxygen, 



WHITE SULPHUR. ^ 

Such a place as the White Sulphur so well fash- 
ioned and provided for by nature, cannot fail to be- 
come, in a very fev^ years, the resort of thousands 
of persons, in search of health, and the head quar- 
ters of fashion, when the first people of the land will 
gather from all quarters, and meet to reciprocate 
mutual good feelings. In less than forty months 
from the present time, it may be predicted, a rail- 
road will sweep by, within a short distance of the 
Warm Spring Mountain, and the inhabitants of 
Union, will find it but three days travel to New York, 
which less than twenty years since, was the journey 
of a month. 

The receipts at these springs are now very large, 
but the expenses are great. A considerable amount 
is annually appropriated for improvements, and by 
the summer of 1840, when the projected ones shall 
be completed, there will be accommodations for 
more than twelve hundred persons. 

There is one great comfort here, in the good bed- 
ding and clean white sheets, not always to be had 
at watering places. The cabins are neat, small, 
but comfortable, generally having two rooms, many 
of them four. 

Do you want accommodations for some of your 
friends about to arrive, you call that stout active 
little man whom you see brushing across the plain 



36 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

in such a hurry. He is always engaged, but ever 
at your service. Discarding the use of pencil or pa- 
per, he has figured in his head the names and num- 
ber of the occupants in every cabin, their size and 
condition. He can tell you, who is coming, at what 
time they w^ill arrive, and w^hen they will start. 

He is the person who assigns the visitors to their 
respective quarters. He is, for the time being, the 
chief ruler and prime minister of the interior. They 
call him the Metternich of the Mountains. Crichton 
and Willard have both had their day, and Anderson 
is now in the full tide of his fame. 

The White Sulphur Hotel, is within a few hun- 
dred yards of the springs, where accommodations 
can be had for over one hundred persons ; it is ge- 
nerally filled during the crowded season, and is open 
during the year when the other establishment is 
closed. The proprietor is an attentive and gentle- 
manly person, and takes good care of his guests. 



37 



CHAP. IV. 

WHITE SULPHUR — SOCIETY-^PIC NIC. 



It is advisable for all who come to the springs, to 
remain any time, to bring with them some amusing 
and entertaining books ; they will find them very 
pleasant companions of a dull hour, during the heat 
of the day, and in rainy weather. The essays of 
Charles Lamb, is an admirable book for a watering 
place, many of his happiest thoughts being here 
illustrated. 

It is now the middle of August, and the White 
Sulphur and the whole neighbourhood is thronging 
with company. There is life in every breeze, and a 
continual hum of joy and merriment pervading the 
place. 

You are seated in front of your cabin in Carolina 
row, with the whole panorama of passing events be- 
fore you. You hear the strunning of many guitars, 
and the sound of flutes from various quarters — you 
listen again, to the screaming of some happy child* 
4 



18 WHITE SULPHUa PAPERS. 

ren, chasing a young fawn over the green ; inno- 
cence sporting with nature — see the young creature, 
he has outstripped his pursuers, and has stopped for 
a moment to strain his wild eyes in a longing look 
at his native hills ; but they are after him again. 
Yonder comes the cake-man, the cliildren's friend ; 
he is punctual to the hour, and is expected daily by 
the inhabitants of every row ; there is music in the 
creaking of his tray to many .After him, in import- 
ance, in the same line, is that little boy with the 
straw hat, he brings the sugar maple from the moun- 
tains, and from near the sweet springs. There is a 
man with an armful of branches and cedar from the 
woods — he has laid them down before a cabin in 
Vu'ginia row, and they are now decorating tlie piaz- 
za, bidding defiance to the hottest sun. The benches 
under the large shady elms in the grove, are filled 
with gentlemen talking politics, and discussing com- 
ing elections — comparing great men — cr telling 
anecdotes — there is much to be learned at this place. 
There was one gentleman here — one of the great 
men of our country, who had been a senator, and 
governor of liis native state ; morning and evening 
wherever he would take his seat, a large number 
would gather around him, young and old, and talent 
and genius would listen in silence, while in the most 
fascinating manner, he would discuss the first prin- 



PASSING EVBNTS. 39 

ciples of government, law, society, politics and cha- 
racter, and his frequent flashes of wit, would make 
the whole area ring with delight. 

There is an arrival. It must be a family from the 
south, from the extent of the train, and the number 
of horses and vehicles. First comes the baggage 
wagon — then a young gentleman on horseback — 
then follows the diligence, containing the children — 
nurses — and bandboxes — after that comes a close 
carriage, with the ladies of the family — then the gen- 
tleman himself riding after — and the calvacade is 
brought up by several other vehicles and servants, 
as outriders. 

The opening of the mail — a scramble for letters 
and papers — expectation on tiptoe for the news — 
arrival of the Great Western — fourteen days from 
Liverpool — coronation of Queen Victoria — Wash- 
ington deserted — President at the springs, and the 
citizens at Pincy Point. 

A lady is standing in her cabin door, a gentleman 
approaches, and holds up a letter bearing her ad- 
dress, her eye sparkles with joy, she runs to meet it 
— and retires, forgetting pleasure and gaiety for 
awhile, to read a few lines "from some one at home." 
The better affections of the heart, and many of the 
softer passions of our nature are called into play, on 
the receipt of a letter from home, in a strange place. 



40 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

^''. There are several resident physicians here ; also 
transient artists — dentists — and phrenologists — and 
a corn-doctor's card, has been posted up for several 
days. We have two or three itinerant jewellers 
also — ^they have been displaying their finery and 
tinsel spread out in the square, and their tables have 
been surrounded all day with nurses and children, 
and all who can satisfy themselves, with gilt ear or- 
naments and finger rings. 

The president of the United States is here, and 
many other distinguished persons. Ladies of fashion 
and belles from the principal cities — ^foreign min- 
isters — members of the cabinet, senators — and re- 
presentatives, prominent judges — officers of the 
army and navy, and polished private gentlemen, all 
COnibining to make the present company, as elegant 
and select as any party ever assembled at a water- 
ing place. 

There is great attraction at the ball-room at pre- 
sent, and it is brilliantly attended every evening by 
the light and gay hearted. Dignity, and power* 
and beauty, and grace, and wit, make up the com- 
pany, mingling their qualities and their fascinations. 

The afternoons now are very fine for walks — 
there are several veiy pretty ones, in and around 
the neighbourhood — parties and couples are straying 
in the beautiful paths of the mastln wood, in the 



SOCIETY. 41 

rear of the hotel, and some are extending their 
steps as far as Lover's Retreat, a romantic spot, in 
the same direction. 

On that part of the sweet spring road which winds 
around by the Colonade, is another very pretty 
walk, with a fine prospect from the brow of the hill. 
Pursuing this path, stepping over little rivulets 
which meander through the glades of this beautiful 
country, you come to a little white cottage where 
small parties of ladies and gentlemen are refreshing 
themselves with ice-cream and niceties that even 
Henrion would approve of. 

If each individual in the society at a place like 
this, where it is generally so very good, w^ould only 
feel convinced how much his efforts, however small, 
might contribute to the general pleasure — and if all 
would recollect that they are strangers on the same 
ground, equally entHled to each other's notice and 
attention, as sojourners from home, without refer- 
ence to their time of arrival — there would be more 
frequent intercourse of an agreeable and intimate 
nature among various persons, and the comfort and 
enjoyment of each would be mutually promoted. 

The general interchange of civilities exist to a 

greater degree among the company at these springs 

than at those of the North ; which doubtless results 

from the isolated position of the former, the ma- 

4* 



42 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

jority of southern people who attend them, and the 
natural propensity of independent persons who re- 
main together any length of time to be sociable. 
In the course of a few years, the tide of travel and 
fashion will flow this way, and it is to be hoped 
that neither parvenu pride nor unnecessary etiquette 
will destroy the social beauties of the old regime. 
Not that there is much fear of it at present. 

Tliis is the hour for drives and excursions. You 
meet carriages and — (when is a carriage not a car- 
riage? why, when it 's a wagon, to be sure, says 
some one at my elbow) — vehicles of all descrip- 
tions, returning from pic nics — and going out with 
those desirous to meet the evening stages, to wel- 
come friends in advance, and to kiss hands to some 
lady passenger they may know in passing, and 
bring home wild flowers. 

You never thoroughly understand the philosophy 
of the word pic nic, until you come here. Ask a lady 
w^ho has spent a summer at the White Sulphur to tell 
you. We had something of the kind a few days since 
at the Greenbriar, about five miles from the springs, 
but there were no ladies present — it was altogother 
a gentleman's affair. It originated with the dele- 
gate from Florida, and some others, who invited 
the company to the number of nearly a hundred, 
among w^hom were the President, the Secretary of 



AMUSEMENTS. 43 

War, and many distinguished members of Congress 
and others. 

The party had all assembled before two o'clock 
at the brick tavern at the bridge. Parties on pic 
nic excursions generally carry their own delicacies 
and baskets, but this was to be an uncommon affair. 
We found every thing amply provided for us, as it 
were by invisible hands. Invisible hands had got 
ready the most tempting and cooling beverages for 
the dusty, thirsty guests, (it was a very dusty day) 
and invisible hands had prepared, under a large 
green arbor at the foot of the mountain, a most 
magnificent entertainment. And then with myrtle 
leaves for a canopy over our devoted heads, we all 
sat down with smiling faces to do justice to the 
delicacies spread before us. 

We had all the luxuries of the mountains, the 
farm-yard, and the streams. The noisy servants at 
our backs were duelling with champagne corks all 
the time, and the table was sparkling with wine and 
wit. 

At this stage of the proceedings, there was a sud- 
den cessation of knives and forks for a moment, the 
band striking up a well-known lively air, and all 
eyes were turned towards the host, who appeared 
leading in a sorry-looking gentleman who had just 
arrived. He had come late, and gave as his excuse 



44 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

that the ladies at the springs finding themselves 
deserted by the beaux, had seized on him, and he 
had just made his escape from paradise row, and 
covered with dust and glory, had come to join our 
party. We were regaled with a fine refreshing 
breeze from the mountain during the w^hole time, 
and the day w^ent by most agreeably. 

We all came home at seven o'clock in the even- 
ing, passing through the enchanting vallies, and 
arrived in time to meet the ladies in the ball-room, 
and give an account of our absence during the day. 



45 



CHAP. V. 

RIDE TO THE SWEET SPRINGS — SWEET SPRINGS, 



One fine racy morning, before sunrise, throwing our 
cloaks over our shoulders, we rolled off in an open 
carriage to make a visit to the Sweet Springs, and 
enjoy the ride before breakfast. We left the White 
Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Paradise row 
were stirring, and in a little while, our dapples were 
winding their way through some of the finest scene- 
ry, romance or poetry had ever pictured. 

Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have 
been carved through the mountains, like the pass of 
mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on 
each side of us, and afar for miles in front, we had 
a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Oc- 
casionally in coming to a turn in the road, some new 
wonder would open before us. At one time we 
were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade 
of some hundred feet in height. And again where 
the road was more narrow, we passed under natural 
arbors, formed by the' meeting of the tops of the 



46 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

bending trees from each side of the way, and where 
the laurel was twining its own garlands on the 
branches. 

My companion, Major V , had brought with 

him a copy of Childe Harold, which was opened, 
and the finest passages sought out. He soon closed 
the book again, however, saying as we both thought, 
that we had poetry enough around us. 

A ride of ten miles brought us to Crowd's, with a 
fine relish for breakfast, or any thing else that might 
be offered us. 

This is the place, where so many excursions are 
made from the springs, for dinner parties and pic- 
nics. The tavern stands on the comer of the road 
at the foot of a mountain, and the sign board swings 
out in front, after the manner of that of Nicholas 
Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be 
found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of 
the neighbourhood. 

We entered the white pailings through a wicket 
gate, and were met on the piazza by Mr. Crow, quite 
portly, and good natured in appearance, somewhat 
of a politician, besides being a colonel. He promised 
us all we required, and brought us a frozen imperial 
to refresh us. 

There is not a tavern keeper, or a stage owner, in 
all Western Virginia — or a great wood chopper who 



SCENERY. 47 

has not some military title — General, is very high — 
only the real militia men take that — Colonel predo- 
minates — and any one who kills a rattlesnake is 
made a major on the spot. 

We here met the President who had rode over 
on horseback accompanied by one of his sons, to 
breakfast. Several travellers in the house, on learn - 
ing that he was the chief magistrate, came in and 
made themselves known to him and were courte - 
ously received. 

Chateaubriand, in describing his visit to the first 
president of the United States, remarks on the sim- 
pleness of his retired manner — and the plainness of 
every thing around him, and wonders how long 
such beauties of republicanism will last. 

We fell into a similar train of thought for a mo- 
ment, and were consoled with the grateful reflection, 
that the purity of our institutions, in one particular 
at least, had existed, for half a century. 

For here was the eighth president of the United 
States, after the lapse of nearly fifty years since the 
time mentioned by the great French writer, travel- 
ling in a wild part of the country, several hundred 
miles from the seat of government, without retinue, 
or even an attendant. 

Colonel Crow, has a large garden attached to his 
establishment, where we gathered a bouquet of jes- 
samines and went on to the Sweet. 



48 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

V 

We left the picturesque behind us, and for the 
next six miles of our journey, we passed through a 
more cultivated country, with many large fields of 
waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a mile 
or two of the sweet, we came to "what is called the 
Red Spring, an old delapidated building, grey with 
age, and all its windows shattered. A young coun- 
try boy was swinging on the broken gate which led 
to the house from the road, and in reply to our ques- 
tion as to who lived there, he told us with an arch 
look, that it was haunted ; and scampered off, leav- 
ing us much to marvel, with our curiosity excited. 

Mr. Paulding says in his letters from the South, 
written twenty years since, that the boys in this re- 
gion are all born poets, but that they run about in 
the sun, without hats, and have their brains dried up. 

Before twelve o'clock, we entered the smiling 
valley of the Sweet Springs. As we passed to our 
lodgment, in the direction of the bath house, we 
heard the merry voices of the bathers, enjoying 
themselves at their usual hour. 

We made our first appearance at dinner, where 
over two huiidred persons were struggling for elbow 
room at two tables only large enough for half that 
number. We were so fortunate as to be seated 
near a celebrated caterer, who having a dozen ser- 
vants in his pay, he was liberal enough to supply 



SWEETSPRINGS. 49 

all his friends in his vicinity. We had air during 
dinner, from the many fans suspended above, and 
which w^ere kept constantly in motion. 

Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a 
visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much 
of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most 
beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place 
is redolent with life and animation, particularly at a 
time when thronging with company. 

You enter on your arrival into a large green area, 
having on each s'de rows of white rustic-looking 
cottages, and directly before you at the further end 
is a green hill of a most 'peculiar diadem.' Many 
little cabins of brick and frame work are scattered 
in various parts of the grounds. 

The spring is under the piazza of the bath house, 
the water rises in a cylindrical reservoir. It is 
sparkhng and exhilirating, and has a piquant acidu- 
lous taste, something like soda water which has been 
left standing. The temperature of the water is 73 
degrees Farenheit, and contains sulphate of magne- 
sia, muriate of soda, and sulphate of soda, carbo- 
nate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, with traces 
of iron and silaceous matter, free carbonic acid, 
bi-carbonate of soda, and carbonic acid gas, the 
excess of the carbonic acid, gives the waters a great 
briskness. 

5 



50 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

The stream is very copious and supplies the two 
extensive baths in the adjoining building, which are 
reserved for the different sexes. The gentleman's 
bath is in a quadrangular form of five feet in depth, 
and surrounded by a wall with an opening at the 
top ; the water is continually flowing oflT. Upon first 
entering the bath, you receive a slight shock ; and in 
another moment, the most delightful sensations come 
over you. The water is soft and unctious to the 
body, and it stimulates powerfully the action of the 
skin, being of a tonic nature, improving its functions, 
and exciting the activity of the absorbent system. 
The carbonic acid gas is seen bubbling up, in little 
globules, on the surface of the water. 

We were recommended not to remain in the bath 
longer than three minutes at first ; but we heard of 
two persons, the day before, having remained in the 
other bath over an hour. At some of the baths in 
Switzerland, which have not a very high tempera- 
ture, the patients pass six or eigijt hours a day in 
the water. 

Bathing has become a science, and many treatises 
have been written on the subject. For those who 
would enlarge and extend such information, the 
waters of the springs of this region will afford them 
the best opportunitie|Lof judging, both by practical 
experiments of their efficacy, and from observation 
of the various effects upon diflferent systems, 



SWEET SPRINGS. 51 

We conversed with Jean DeLorme, the old bath- 
keeper, who has been standing here, with a napkin 
on each arm, for the last forty years. " Peregrine 
Prolix" has given his history in full, so we were pre- 
pared for the antiquated guardian of the bath. 

The >Sweet Springs are among the most ancient 
and celebrated watering places in the United States, 
and it is only surprising, that until very lately, so few 
improvements have been made in the buildings. A 
large and handsome hotel is now erecting, which 
will be ready for the reception of guests in the sum- 
mer of 1839, and the accommodations will then be 
sufficient for four hundred persons. This has been 
long wanting, for the cottages arc mostly old and 
dilapidated, each containing two small rooms 

The bar room of the present day, was once the 
theatre of quite a different display. The county 
court was formerly held in that room, where Patrick 
Henry, and other great men of Virginia, have been 
heard to thunder their eloquence. 

There is a continual flow and ebb of company 
here during the summer, and it is only in the latter 
part of August, and the first few weeks in Septem- 
ber, that the place is much crowded, when persons, 
with families, after having drank the waters of the 
other springs, come here to bathe in the waters, 
which possess so many secret and beneficial quali- 



52 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

ties. Its influence is visible in the gay spirits and 
animation of the company. The amusements here 
are various — a ball room and a piano, where the 
ladies can amuse themselves; and many pretty walks 
of an evening over the green hill, which leads to 
more sequestered retreats through the w^oods and 
to groves shaded by the maple trees: rides on horse- 
back and drives to water falls, and fishing streams, 
in the neighbourhood — a nd theyhave the most 
trans-parent of moonlights. 

The forests abound in game, particularly pheci- 
sants — and gentlemen can have fine sport in that 
\V3.y. 

The Sweet Springs are destined, at no distant 
day, to become a great and favourite place of resort, 
and its vicinity to the White Sulphur, and the facili- 
ties of getting there, give it many advantages. 

The Sweet Spring water is serviceable in the va- 
rieties of dyspepsia, accompanied by spasms, or wdth 
pains at irregular intervals. In secondary debihty 
of the digestive canal, from the exhausting heat of 
summer, or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery with- 
out fever. 

Females of what are termed a nervous habit of 
body, who have been enfeebled by protracted con- 
finement, or long nursing their children, deprivation 
of exercise, and of the enjoyment of fresh air, and 



SWEET SPRING WATER. 53 

who have in addition to these causes of dyspepsia, 
made excessive use of tea and coffee, will find their 
health and strength restored by drinking these 
waters, and by using the bath. 

The usual time for drinking the waters of the 
Sweet Springs, is early in the morning, before din- 
ner, and at tea time. This latter period is an im- 
proper one, it has been thought ; except the invalid 
suffer at the time from spasm of the stomach, or ex- 
perience a morbid and gnawing sensation of hunger. 
The water is also useful in calculus and nephritic 
complaints. It is efficacious in those deranged states 
of the digestive functions which are termed abdomi- 
nal obstruction. In chronic enlargement of the liver, 
or long standmg stomach disorder with acidity, 
hemorrhoidal affections, and uterine derangement. 
The water being only tepid, the bath is not recom- 
mended for chronic rheumatism or gout. 

The waters of the Sweet Springs, (save in tempe- 
rature,) for their cures and in their ingredients, may 
be likened to those of Vichy, a celebrated watering 
place in France, on the banks of the Allier, eighty 
leafifues from Paris. 



54 



CHAR VI. 



DEER HUNT AT THE WHITE SULPHUR LEWISBURG- 

OF SIGHS ANECDOTES. 



One of the favorite amusements at the White Sul- 
phur, is the deer hunt. The season commences 
after the first of August, and continues until the 
close of November; and during those four months 
it is kept up continually, and with much spirit. A 
very fine pack of hounds, to the number of sixty, is 
owned here by one of the sons of the proprietor, and 
it is a beautiful and novel sight to see them all going 
out. 

The several Caroli^ia gentlemen who spend their 
summers here, are particularly fond of the sport, 
and each morning during the season, tliey may be 
seen getting ready, with high hope in their faces, 
and arranging the routes and the drives for the day. 
And when the spoil is brought in, and displayed in 
the principal square, there is a great rejoicing among 
the sportsmen and good livers, and comparing, of 
notes amoncr the hunters. Tlio fortunate hero of 



DEER HUNT AT THE WHITE SULPHUR. 55 

the day has a feather in his cap until the next hunt, 
and claims the first haunch, with the privilege of 
making a present of the other to whom he pleases. 

Great preparations were making one morning for 
the hunt. A slight rain the evening previous had 
laid the dust somewhat, and the ground was thought 
to be in good order, and the dogs were keen for the 
scent. The President was to attend the hunt that 
day, and much pleasure was anticipated, and the 
southern men were anxious to shoAV the northerners 
a Uttle real good sport. 

There was a mounting and making ready among 

the party. Col. S , Col. H , of Carolina, 

and Dr. C , the leaders of the chase, and ' the 

crack shots were there — and Nimrod, raising his 
bugle, brought forth the whole pack with their 
music, as loosened from the kennel they came dash- 
ing through the square. 

This being an uncommon day, it was given out 
that the ladies could accompany the party, follow- 
ing, those who pleased, in carriages. 

The party started and took the Greenbriar route. 
Nimrod with the hounds in front, and then the cava- 
liers with their velvet coats and caps, and rifles 
and double-barrels. Many of the gentlemen who 
carried no guns, preferred ambling along with the 
carriages, as much more gallant than leaving them, 
for other deer in the mountains. 



56 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

We went forth in gallant style, and only wanted 
the hawkers, to have miagined ourselves in the 
reign of Queen Elizabeth on a Holy-rood day. 

After driving for a few miles, we came to the 
appointed place on a turn off from the road, on a 
grassy knoll in the shade, which was to be our 
stand, and where we were left to shoot the deer if 
we pleased, with canes and parasols, whenever he 
might come by. 

Occasionally we would hear the baying note of a 
single hound, which would die away in the breeze, 
then again of the whole pack. Nearer and nearer 
they came. A horseman dashed by in the direc- 
tion of the springs. We were all again in motion, 
and from a station of greater eminence on the hill 
at a little distance, where we were promised in a 
short while a rare sight, as something fine had been 
started. 

We had not waited long before a large stag 
made his appearance from the brushwood at the 
side of the mountain, and boimded into the field, the 
dogs after him in full cry. It was a most exciting 
scene. The dogs were running beautifully, most of 
them tw^o and two, at full speed, and the deer about 
twenty yards only, in front. Three times they 
w^ent round and across Briar-field, the hounds gain- 
ing rapidly — now within a few feet of him — now 



DEER HUNT LEVVIriBURG. 57 

the stag gaining, while many a fond wish from the 
softest hearts, was heard for his safety. 

"I hope he will escape," said one fair lady. 

" I hope he wont," said Erank H , a great 

rider, " he has worried us enough to-day." 

We all looked on with great interest. The boys 
who had read Ovid, thought of Actseon and a dark 
eyed girl, quoted a passage from Scott. 

The affrighted animal in the mean time, knowing 
his danger, was making for the stream, which he 
gained just as Ring, a famous hound, would have 
had him, in another jump. 

The deer, after swimming for half a mile, and 
cooling himself was again routed, but too stiffened 
then for another race, he was soon overtaken and 
at the mercy of the dogs --, but tliis was out of our 
sight. 

The company, after witnessing a deer hunt in our 
own times, and much pleased with the sport, went 
off to Lewisburg, many of them to finish the day. 
This is a little town ten miles from the White Sul- 
phur. The court is held here, where parties make 
frequent excursions to hear a speech at the bar, dine 
at Frazier's, and then return in the evening. 

We left Lewisburg after five o'clock, and came 
home in high glee, passing over the "Bridge of 
Sighs." This is a bridge thrown over the creek, 



58 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

about two m-les from the springs, and is a very 
pretty place for a walk of an afternoon. It is so 
called from the fact of a young fawn having been 
wounded by the hunters and escaping pursuit, hav- 
ing there fallen where a party just returning from a 
pic nic, were drawai up. The graceful animal, 
while expiring, yielded his last sigh at this spot, 
accompanied by more than one tear from pitying 
beauty— and hence it goes by the name of the 
« Bridge of Sighs." 

Hunting the deer is an ancient sport, and has 
been patronized by all the liberal nations. It was 
formerly in England a royal privilege, and all the 
crowned heads of the realm have taken part in it. 

Edward the Confessor, it is said, was a great 
hunter, and exacted three thousand loaves of bread 
from one of his manors for the support of his dogs. 

As an illustration of the eagerness and excite- 
ment which characterized the followers of the sport 
in former times, it is related in the field book, that 
the Duke of Grafton, while hunting, was thrown 
into a ditch, at the same time a young curate call- 
mg out, "lie still my lord," leaped over him, and 
pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of feel- 
ing we may presume was properly resented ; but 
no such thing. On being helped out by his attend- 
ants, his grace said — " That man shall have the fii'st 



HUNTING AMONG THE INCAS. 59 

good living within my gift, if he had stopped to take 
care of me, I never would have given him any 
thing." 

A traditional account is given of the celebrated 
spring in Germany, called Hirchsprung, having been 
discovered by the Emperor Charles IV., who, while 
on the hunt, brought a stag to bay at this spot, 
whence it leaped down the valley; the stag was 
overtaken at the sprudel, which occasioned the dis- 
covery of the spring, from which the emperor, at a 
subsequent period, when he was wounded in the 
wars, derived so much benefit, that he founded and 
gave his name to the town, which soon increased 
considerably in size, and became one of the first 
watering places in Europe. 

In the time of the Incas, a grand semi-annual hunt 
was held throughout their land. About thirty thou- 
sand of the natives enclosed some twenty-five leagues 
of country, bordered by rivers and mountains. The 
hunters made a great hallowing and noise, and the 
animals alarmed, were hemmed in, and taken. The 
lions, bears, lynxes, foxes and other beasts of prey, 
were extirpated. Sometimes as many as forty 
thousand of such animals as the roebuck, fallow deer 
and vicuma, were caught. All the best males and 
females were suflfered to escape ; the old ones only 
were killed. 



60 



CHAP. VII. 



THE SALT SULPHUR THE RED SULPHUR— THE GREY SULPHUR 

THE BLUE SULPHUR. 



I.V no country within the same circumscribed space, 
can there be found so many vakiable medicinal 
waters, whose qualities are of such high repute, as 
among the Tallies of this region. The springs of 
the Pyrenees and of Gerniany, are very numerous 
in some parts, mostly within the different villages, 
but the qualities of but a very few of them can com- 
pare with the waters of the Sweet Springs, the 
Warm Springs, the Hot Springs, or the White Sul- 
phur, the Red Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, the Blue 
Sulphur and the Grey Sulphur — all of which arc 
within the limits of a half day's ride. 

This is one of the advantages a traveller enjoys 
in a visit to the springs in this section. Without 
being compelled to remain at one place the whole 
summer, he can spend a portion of his time at each, 
and if his health is not benefited by the waters of 
one spring, he can try thosp of another. 



THEORGAFCOVE. 61 

We left the White Sulphur one morning, to visit 
the Salt Sulphur, remain there that day, and visit 
the Red on the next, and then return to the White. 
The distance to the Salt Sulphur is twenty-four 
miles from the w^hite, over a very good mountainous 
road, running through a very picturesque part of the 
country. We were four in company, and were getting 
along very pleasantly, when having gone ten or 
twelve miles, our driver stopped and asked if any 
of us wanted to visit the Organ Cave. Upon our 
answering in the negative, he hesitated, surprised at 
our want of curiosity, and remarked with much em- 
phasis, that " it was John Rogers' Organ Cave, the 
most celebrated, and greatest curiosity in the states," 
but we still declined and pushed on. The question 
then arose among us, whether this was the original 
John Rogers, or merely some namesake, and we 
were very seriously discussing the matter, without 
coming to any decisive conclusion, when we arrived 
at the Salt Sulphur, in time for dinner, where the 
preparations were so abundant, that we were in- 
clined to think it an extra occasion, but we were 
told afterwards, that such was always the case at 2 
o'clock, p. m., at the Salt. 

The buildings here are quite extensive, and can 
accommodate two hundred persons very conve- 



62 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

iiiently ; the dining room is large and airy, and the 
attendance very good. 

The water of the spring is not so pleasant to the 
taste as that of the White Sulphur, though some- 
what similar; having an additional dash of the 
sulphate of soda in its composition. 

We enjoyed the fine walks in the neighbourhood 
over the heights, having on all sides of us the finest 
mountain scenery, and attended the ball in the even- 
ing which was quite a brilliant one, where we met 
many of our fair acquaintances from the Wliite. 

The living at this spring is so very fine, that many 
special excursions are made from the other springs 
to dine here, dance in the evening, and return home 
next day. 

The thriving town of Union is wdthin a few miles 
of these springs. 

We left the Salt Sulphur next morning after break- 
fast, not intending this should be our last visit, and 
continued our route to the Red Sulphur, the distance 
to which from this place, is seventeen miles, over a 
very good road, through a wildly beautiful and un- 
cultivated part of the country, telling of romance 
and adventure in every sedge and cavern and shad- 
ed stream, which you pass on your route. 

You have a fine view of the whole establishment 



REDSULPHUR. 63 

of the Red Sulphur at a sudden turn of the road be- 
fore you reach the springs. 

The buildings consist of two large and commo- 
dious hotels, and several rows of neat cabins ; the 
walks are well planned which intersect the lawns, 
and abound with large trees, of the sugar maple ; a 
beautiful green hill in the vicinity forms a fine pro- 
menade in the evening. The accommodations are 
excellent for invalids and others, and the place is 
much resorted to of late years, by persons suffering 
with pulmonary complaints, and it is thought when 
the water here, fails to effect a cure, there is no re- 
medy beyond. 

The spring takes its name from the red precipi- 
tate at the bottom: the water is sedative in its 
effects, and reduces irritation and the pulse. It is 
mostly taken before going to bed at night, and before 
breakfast. Its principal ingredients are sulphate of 
soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and mu- 
riate of soda. 

There is more quietude here than at the other 
springs, and the sound of some lone flute in the val- 
ley, will carry back the hstener to the history of the 
Pantheon and the Sylvan deities. 

They dance here, as at all the springs, and the 
colored race of Virginia being born fiddlers, a musi- 
cian is never out of the way. 



64 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Our companions, the most of them being gay La- 
tharios, from the white, could not be prevailed on 
to remain more than one evening, and we left this 
romantic spot on the next morning to return to the 
white, a distance of forty five miles. 

We were denied the pleasure of a visit to the 
Grey Sulphur, which is nine miles from the Red. 
Those springs are owned by a Carolina gentleman, 
Mr. Legare, who has been extending the improve- 
ments of the place for the last three years. The 
waters are said to be very anti-dyspeptic, and con- 
tain sulphuretted hydrogen and several neutral salts. 
Those who have visited the Grey, speak very highly 
of the accommodations, and of the attention and 
politeness of the host. There is an inducement for 
company to visit that place, arising from the num- 
ber of accomphshed Carolineans who resort there 
with their families. 

The Blue Sulphur is twenty-five miles from the 
White ; the stage leaves the latter place regularly 
every morning, and arrives before dinner. The 
Blue Sulphur has become a very favorite and fash- 
ionable resort within a few summers past, and bids 
fair to be the chief watering place in the mountains, 
after the White Sulphur. The accommodations 
are sufficient for two hundred persons, and very ex- 
tensive improvements are in projection. In front of 



BLUESULPHUR. 65 

the main brick building, is a handsome three storied 
piazza, forming a fine promenade, before which you 
have an extensive level plain, laid out in walks, and 
bounded on both sides by the mountains, and orna- 
mented with groves of the sugar maple, and several 
rows of pretty cabins. The bathing is unusually 
good, and the bath houses are in very fine order. 

The dining room is of an agreeable size, and airy 
of a warm day, and the table is abundantly supplied 
with many delicacies. 

The water in the spring very much resembles 
that of the White Sulphur in taste. The fountain 
is not so large, nor the stream so copious as the White; 
the water has a purplish color, and from its ingre- 
dients, it may be likened to the famous spring of Ba- 
den. It contains sulphuretted hydrogen and carbo- 
nic acid gas, sulphate of soda, muriate of soda, sul- 
phate of lime, carbonate of lime, sulphate of magne- 
sia, sulphur, and animal or glairine matter. The 
above enumeration of its ingredients, agrees pre- 
cisely with a published analysis of the spring at 
Baden near Vienna. 



66 



CHAP. VIIL 



AUTUMN IN THE MOUNTAINS. 



The summer has gone with all its bright days, its 
joys and its pleasures, and the soft mellow rays of 
declining September, are falling on the woods and 
the hills. The edges of the horizon wear a golden 
hue, and the setting sun is forming landscapes in the 
clouds. 

The mountains are robed in their highest beauty 
— the trees have put on their bright court dresses, 
of a thousand different hues, and all nature looks 
serenely beautiful. 

" How call you this — the season's fall 
That seems the pageant of the year, 
Richer and brighter far than all — 
The pomp that spring and smnmer wear." 

But very few persons remain at the springs as 
late as the last week in September, which, with part 
of the month of October, is the most delightful period 



AUTUMN IN THE MOUNTAINS. 67 

to those who are fond of autumn scenery and the 
quiet pleasures the season brings. There is a tran- 
quilHty of atmosphere at that time — a moral philo- 
sophy of weather which must be felt to be better 
described or enjoyed. 

The White Sulphur and the neighbouring springs 
are nearly deserted, a few still linger; but there is 
company, for those who like it, in the beautiful 
scenery of the surrounding country, and in the 
winged flutterers of the forest. 

The foliage of the woods, and the meadows is of 
the richest kind — of every colour and every shade, 
yellow, purple, blue, vermillion, orange, the modest 
orange, scarlet, and crimson. 

The Indian summer succeeds, in October, and 
it continues warm until Christmas. The mountai- 
neers are brins^inof down their deer to sell, and their 
prices have fallen considerably since the <ionsumers 
have thinned off, and the gentlem.en in this vicinity 
being all shots themselves, they never purchase. 

The mountains in the neighbourhood, and for some 
miles around, have been on fire for several days. It 
is a sublime spectacle to see them at night, their 
tops covered with sheets of living flame ; the young 
pine trees filled with rosin, burn with a terrible 
cracking; and bursting, send up their red light to 



68 



WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS 



the black clouds, while the beholder is reminded of 
volcanoes in their rage. 

Fires have to be kindled below the mountains to 
meet those from above, otherwise the fences and 
corn in the fields would be destroyed. 

These fires, so destructive to the verdure and 
gi'owth of the trees, happen, almost annually, from 
the carelessness of the hunters, who fire the dry 
leaves and underwood to increase the facilities of 
procuring game, and not unfrequently from the burn- 
ing of a bee-tree. 

This particular region in the county of Green- 
briar, and as far as the Sweet Springs, was at one 
time a favourite resting place for the red man. The 
smoke has curled from many a wigwam on these 
high hills, where councils and war talks have been 
held, and along the banks of the creek can now be 
found the arrow points of quivers wasted in hunt 
and in battle. Kate's mountain, in view from the 
White Sulphur, was the scene of many a bloody 
fight between the white settlers and the Indians. 
The mountain takes its name from an old lady, Kate 
Carpenter — who after having her family butchered, 
took refuge there, where slie remained for some days 
in great jeopardy of her life. 

But tales of border warfare of olden days have 
ceased to be interesting. The thrilling occurrences 



INDIAN CHIEFS. 69 

which are now daily happening, have too much 
reality in them and are sufficiently exciting. 

In a few years more these ancient stories will all 
be forgotten, and the men who came from the 
thunder will be gone. 

Pushamataha, a celebrated chief of the Chostaws, 
on being questioned as to his birth, replied, 'Pushama- 
taha was never born — a dark cloud passed over the 
horizon — a flash of lightning rent the tallest pine 
tree — the heavens opened, and out stepped Push- 
mataha, a full grown warrior, with his rifle on his 
shoulder.' 

Those wdio heard the great Keokuk when at 
Washington, will perhaps remember the opening of 
one of his speeches where alluding to the rapid de- 
cline of his race : 

"Father, I stand before you, one foot in my own 
nation and one foot here — ^the sun is before me, and 
the sun is behind me— he shines all day with the 
whites, but he sets among the red men." And again 
his touching remarks at a parting speech with the 
secretary of war : " Father, we have one thing more 
to ask before we go, — during our last war with the 
whites, one of our young girls was taken prisoner. 
We loved her very much, her name is the Turkey 
child, and the woman, her mother, has grieved for 
her ever since — she is weeping her eyes away at 



70 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

home, and they call her the lonely one ; if you will 
have the child restored, the woman's heart will be 
gladdened, and Keokuk and the nation will be 
pleased." 

Black Hawk, whose name was once a terror in 
the north-west, accompanied Keokuk and his wai 
riors to Washington in the fall of Thirty-seven, but 
all his power had been taken from him — he was no 
longer a Chief. A few years before, he had been 
carried through the United States, by order of the 
government, to impress upon him the power and 
extent of the country. He had been through the 
principal cities, and had visited fortress Monroe, 
and the navy yard at Gosport and seen the shipping. 
After he had been hberated and had reached home, 
he astonished the natives of the forest, in describing 
the wonders he had witnessed. Among other things 
he told them he had seen a canoe, which would hold 
a thousand people and a hundred big guns. This 
last story was past believing — they suspected him 
of trying to impose on their credulity. A canoe 
large enough for a small nation — it was too monstrous 
to be believed ; it was decided, however, that he 
should accompany them on their visit to the United 
States, where he could prove the many wonders he 
had related. 



BLACK HAWK KEO KUK. 71 

I went with an interpreter at Washington to see 
Black Hawk. I found him a much smaller man 
than I had supposed him to be, apparently about 
sixty years of age, plainly dressed, in a calico shirt, 
with blue leggings, and rings in his ears. I told him 
I was glad to see him, and had long heard of him 
as a great warrior. He said he was a great man 
once wdien he was a Chief, but now, that the whites 
forgot to come and shake hands with him ; and with 
an expressive countenance, he pointed to a room, 
where Keokuk then was surrounded by the crowds 
who flocked to see him. Keokuk was one of the 
finest specimens of a man I had ever seen — a model 
of nature for the sculptor, and he reminded you of 
Persico's statue of war at the capitol. He had a 
tall and commanding figure, and the stamp of a 
nobleman on his face, and was looked after as he 
walked along, with admiration. He wore a rich 
scarlet robe, flung over a dress of the same colored 
material, and the ornaments and presents about his 
person, were of the richest kind. No Calmuc Tar- 
tar, in his most showy costume, ever appeared to 
finer advantage than Keo Kuk. He was the head 
the Sacs and Foxes. 

An Indian agent from the west, gave me an 
account of another speech of this great orator, made 
at a time when the Winnebagoes had threatened to 



72 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

murder the whites at Prairie du Chietio There was 
a great gathering of the tribes, for a peace talk : the 
Winnebagoes alone, came into council with their 
faces painted black, a sign of hostility. 

Keokuk, in an animated speech, wherein he de- 
clared himself the friend of the whites, turned to the 
Winnebagoes and addressed them after this man- 
ner : 

„ Winnebagoes, I hear that you threaten to make 
war on the whites — if so, when you promised them 
friendship last year, you spoke with a forked tongue 
— and your hearts were as black then, as your faces 
are now— Winnebagoes !" . continued he, plucking a 
hair from his head, and holding it up — "you see this 
hair ! If you lay the weight of your hand on a single 
white man, I will sweep you from the face of the 
earth, as I blow this hair." The speech had its 
desired effect. 

The road passing by the White Sulphur, is the 
great route to the west by Guyandotte, and for many 
weeks, hundreds of wagons, and other conveyances, 
have been going by, filled with emigrants, in search 
of new homes. Men, women and children, uf all ages, 
sizes and conditions. There is much character to 
be met with among them occasionally; and it afford- 
ed the writer of these pages much pleasure, and 
interest at times, to hear their original remarks, as 



EMIGRATION. 73 

to the country they were going to, and what they 
intended to do, when they got there. 

I came upon a party one day, who had been bi- 
vouacing,on the side of the way; it turned out to be a 
whole neighbourhood, from one of the eastern coun- 
ties of Virginia, on their way to Ilhnois. They had 
with them all their farming utensils and furniture — 
spinning wheels, churns, and the like. The boys (a 
number of them) who were large enough, were sup- 
plied w^ith guns, and they walked after the wagons 
and furnished the game. The old patriarch of the 
party, with whom I conversed, said it went very 
hard with him to leave old Virginny, but the lands 
they had just quitted, were worn out, and would not 
produce sufficient support for their faixdlies, which 
were large. They had collected several hundred 
dollars among them, and were going to buy 
and cultivate new lands in Illinois. The old man 
Was quite pleased and surprised, when I mentioned 
that the emperor of China ploughed a furrow once 
a year, from respect to the farmers and agriculture, 
and calling the attention of one of the boys near 
him, he said, '^Do you hear that, sir — that the king 
of China was a farmer? and if you keep straight, 
you may be the president of the United States yet" 
— nothino- more true than the old man's last remark; 



74 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

it^is verified in the history of this country, and one 
of those very boys may be our future president. 

Who were once the leading statesmen of the pre- 
sent day, and our great men in congress? Among 
the many instances of self made men, there is one 
who has been known in the councils at Washing- 
ton, and much respected for his character and ser- 
vices. I have heard him tell his own story — how 
he wandered when a boy, from some where in Penn- 
sylvania, I think, barefooted, and almost without 
clothes, begging his way, as he went along, and 
swinging to the ends of wagons, with no capital but 
youth and a light heart, not knowing a letter of the 
alphabet, or the meaning of a book. 

How one day, overtaking a wagon which had 
stalled in the road, and which by his proffered assist- 
ance was released, the owner patting him on the 
shoulder said, ' 'Be of cheer, my little man, you'll be 
a general some of these days." This he remember- 
ed through life. 

He found his way to Ohio, and by chopping wood 
and clearing the forest, he made a little money — 
finding a stray newspaper one day, he became pos- 
sessed with a strona: desire to learn to read, and 
after the age of twenty- five he came to know his 
letters. He was made a general, verifying the pre- 
diction of the teamster — was sent to the legislature, 



EFFECTS OF ENTERPRIZE. 75 

and afterwards elected to congress, where he was 
a prominent member until 1834, and only last year 
finished his term as governor of the state. 



76 



JOURNAL OF A LADY DURING THE SEASON AT THE 
WHITE SULPHUR. 



CHAP. IX. 



JOURNAL. 



Tuesday, July — . 
It is two weeks this day since I arrived here, and 
exactly three since leaving home, towards the end 
of June, where the flowers look brighter, and the 
birds sing sweeter with us than at any other time. 
I set out for this terrestrial paradise — so it was de- 
scribed to me then — (and such I have almost found 
it to be) to renovate my health by drinking of its 
sparkling waters, and whirl away the summer 
hours in mirth and gladness, among its green hills 
and smiling valleys. 

Our party being among the first arrivals, w^e ob- 
tained excellent accommodations, which by a little 
tact and management we have been enabled thus 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 77 

far to retain exclusively for ourselves. I cannot 
but contrast the present aspect here of every thing, 
with that which presented itself on our first arrival. 
Then every thing was green and beautiful, as it is 
now, but more quiet than our own homes. We 
spent all the morning in our cabin, looking from 
time to time with eager eyes towards the high road 
in the hope of being blessed with the sight of some 
travelling carriage ; and when the few who were 
here met on the walk in the afternoon, the first 
enquiry was, what friends are coming? When wiL 
they be here? Now all is life, bustle and enjoy- 
ment, and each day brings an accession to our com- 
pany. It was but this moment that I saw Mr. 
Anderson lead the way to Carolina Row, followed 
by a carriage and four, filled with ladies ; the gen- 
tlemen of the party following on horseback. 

Scarcely have we got through the rides and 
excursions of one day, ere new ones are proposed 

for the next. " Miss has never been to Lewis- 

burof, or Miss has never seen the cascade, or 

would like to see it again. We must have a ride 
over to the Sweet Springs; we. can dine at Crow's 
on the way back, and then be in time for the ball." 

Such is the usual preface of conversation among 
a circle of some twenty persons. But there 's the 

dinner bell, and as I saw pretty Mrs. K 's maid 

7# 



78 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

ruii by just now with the curKng tongs, I must stop 
writing in order to give a look at my own coiffure, 
or I shall not be in time to witness the grand entree 
into the dining hall. 

After dinner I sauntered with the rest of the 
world into the ball-room, Avhich is the only general 

parlour here. Meeting with the J 's, w^e sat 

down and had a long chat of more than an hour. 
As they expressed a wish, on leaving the room, to 
pay a visit in Baltimore Row, I accompanied them. 
We found the door closed, which signifies here, 
" not at home." We wrote our names and the hour 
of calling, on one of the pillars of the piazza, and 
retraced our steps home. If we had had cards 
with us, it would have been in accordance with true 
etiquette to have placed them under the door. On 

reaching my room, I wrote a long letter to S , 

entreating her to come and join us here. After tea 
I merely took two or three turns on the walk, and 
then came up to seal my letter for the mail, and 
make ready for the ball ; which, by the bye, was 
the gayest and brightest we have had. " Murray '^ 
played with spirit, and we encouraged him by danc- 
ing until half past ten— it was eleven before we had 
talked the day over, and as it is now sometime sifter, 
I very cheerfully say good night. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 79 



Thursday, 



I had just fallen asleep last night, when I was 
awakened by the sound of music. I listened. It 
came nearer and nearer, and I discovered it was 
the band serenading. At length they stopped 
beneath our window for half an hour, and then 
again passed on5stopping occasionally on their way, 
until the sounds were completely lost in the dis- 
tance. Serenades are of nightly occurrence here. 
About three nights since, I listened to some of the 
sweetest music I had ever heard, from a guitar, a 
flute, and three voices. 

Apropos to serenades, I was much amused to-day 
by an anecdote related to me by a lady who had 
an active part in the scene. It seems that she and 
her cousin, a young lady of much romance and 
spirit, were here last summer, and the first among 
those who were most courted and admired. Two 
gentlemen, friends of theirs, were to leave the 
springs next morning, and from some intimation 
given during the day, the ladies understood that 
they were to receive that evening a farewell sere- 
nade. 

My cousin, continued she, determined to reward 
them and proposed forming wreaths of flowers 
to be lowered to them at the conclusion of their 
song. After some little persuasion, I assented 



80 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERR. 

to the plan, and that day was spent in gathering the 
brightest flowers, and twining them with the dark 
green leaves of the laurel which grows in such abun- 
dance here into crowns for the expected trouba- 
dours. Night came, and about an hour after we 
had retired, we heard the anticipated sounds beneath 
the window; we immediately rose and attaching 
strings of ribbon to the wreaths, we softly raised the 
sash and at the conclusion of the first song, lowered 
them to our friends below. There was a slight 
pause and then some whispering among the musi- 
cians as though they were consulting how they 
might best reward so flattering a return of their 
compliment to us, so' we thought at least, and were 
confirmed in this opinion by their singing in conclu- 
sion one of our most favourite songs. 

We retired in high spirits at what we considered 
the success of our little frolic. In the morning on 
looking from the wdndow as usual, to ascertain the 
state of the w^eather, what was our consternation, 
at beholding withered and neglected on the ground 
the wreaths that we fondly imagined were on the 
road to the Warm Springs with the friends for whom 
they were intended and treasured by them as pre- 
cious remembrances of ourselves. It so happened 
that the night had been dark, and we had been so 
cautious in our movements, that we were neither 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 81 

heard nor our offerings received. We instantly 
sent down our maid to rescue them from observation 
and could but laugh at the failure of a scheme, the 
supposed success of w^hich had given us so much 
satisfaction the night before. 

Saturday, . 

About six o'clock this evening, a gay party of us 
were on our way to Briar-field, the residence of Mrs. 

B , about two miles from the springs, in the 

direction of Lewisburg, where we were invited to 
spend the evening, or as they say here, to a tea- 
drinking. In our rides to L , the house which 

stands back from the road had frequently been point- 
ed out, when seen in glimpses through the trees, as 
the dwelling of one of the most amiable of ladies, 
and one who was exceedingly fond of the society of 
young people, and always taking pleasure in contri- 
buting all in her power, in any way, to their happi- 
ness or amusement. 

Upon our arrival, we found quite a sociable 
number had preceded us, and we were very cordially 
received by the kind hostess. Tea was handed, and 
the waiters were filled with such a profusion of good 
things, and creams, and warm pound-cake, that we 
forgot, for awhile, in our delight, that we were more 
than three hundred miles from home in the moun- 



82 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

tains, but imagined ourselves on an evening visit to 
a country seat near the city. 

After tea, leaving the elder portion of the com- 
pany to amuse themselves as they pleased, we young 
people, strolled into the garden, w^hich may be easily 
perceived from its flourishing condition, to be under 
the peculiar care of its mistress. The only spot I 
have seen in the neighbourhood, w^here flowers are 
cultivated. 

The garden is extensively laid out, abounding in 
fruit trees, and currants and raspberries. A small 
arbor is covered wdth the multiflora rose and honey- 
suckle, and the borders of the walks are lined w^ith 
the prettiest flowers, pinks, mignionette, hearts-ease, 
ambrosias, and stork jellies — all reminding us so 
much of our sweet garden at home. 

The evening was beautifully clear and bright, but 
the dew^ beginning to fall, we were soon called into 
the house by our prudent friends, to the litfle vexa- 
tion, no doubt, of some who were wandering off 
alone, to the less frequented paths of the garden, 
endeavouring, perchance, to tell their feelings in 
flowers, and drinking sentiment from tulip cups and 
blushing rose buds. Soon after our return to the 
house, we took leave of our amiable hostess, and 
returned to decorate our heads for the ball, from the 

many pretty bouquets she had so generously pre* 
sented us. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 83 



Monday, 



We are four in our cabin ; C. and I. occupying 
one room, and having our front room to receive 
visitors, and our piazza for our miisic saloon. We 
are much better off than many of our acquaintances 
in Virginia row, where they have but two apart- 
ments in each cabin. 

We attended divine service on Sunday, in the 
ball room, at eleven o'clock. There is no regular 
minister here, but generally some one is present, to 
officiate on each Sabbath. The day is very reli- 
giously observed, more so than at most of the no] th- 
ern watering places, which is saying a good deal for 
the high tone and moral sense of the company, and 
in the midst of all our pleasures, there is no little to be 
admired at it. 

Wanting some barege for veils this morning, C. 
and I. went over to the store, which is kept in the 
corner of Virginia row. When we entered, we 
found the only person in attendance, then assisting 
a lady in trying a pair of gloves on a little boy of 
five years old, who persisted most pertinaceously in 
thrusting his four fingers into that part intended for 
his thumb alone, so we had time to look about us at 
the many fanciful things which were arranged rather 
promiscuously on the shelves : dry goods, buttons, 
nails, laces, silks, shoes, artificial flowers, perfumery, 
jewelry, and in short, every thing which could be 



84 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

wanted or asked for, was to be had. Suspended 
from the ceihng, were tin buckets, hosiery, baskets, 
stage whip and horns, and numerous other trifles. 
The person who waited on us, was more than civil, 
and finding what we wanted, we came away much 
satisfied. 

In the porch were a pair of scales, where we 
found a young lady affecting the delicate and inter- 
esting, quite shocked to find that she weighed a 
hundred pounds. What must have been her con- 
tempt for me, who weigh one hundred and twenty- 
three? however, I am told a young lady may weigh 
126 without exceeding the allowed compliment of 
em hon point beauty. 

After dinner, we heard some delightful music at 
the ball room, both vocal and instrumental, from 

Mrs. and her sister Miss ; it w^as so 

attractive, that we remained there for some hours. 

Wednesday, . 



We were invited to a lunch at the Colonnade this 
morninor. We met there a very agreeable company 
of some dozen ladies and gentlemen ; the refresh- 
ments were fine, and with much wit and good hu- 
mour, the two hours went off" very pleasantly. The 
ball in the evening was quite gay ; the order of the 
dance is two cotillions, then a w^altz, the Spanish 
dance, or Virginia reel, being generally the finale; 



JOURNALOFALADY. 85 

and to-night, for the first time, we had the German 
cotillion. One is often amused at the variety of style 
of dancing with different persons. We have every 
grade exhibited, from the ancient pigeon v\^ing, and 
bobbing up and down of the country squire and miss, 
to the slide, or dignified walking through, of the more 
eastern Belle and Beau. I don't know exactly what 
our style can be called, but very likely it is thought 
outre, by those who prefer their own. 

There is one gentleman here from Baltimore, who 
in defiance of his silver-tinged locks, seems to enjoy 
his dance as much as the youngest among the com- 
pany ; he scorns the modern introduction of boots, 
(and there I think him right) and seems to point the 
toe of his well-polished pump with peculiar emphasis, 
where the heel of some reckless Wellington passes 
before him. 

It is impossible not to meet with some eccentrici- 
ties and oddities of dress among every company 
gathered at a watering place ; still I do wish frock 
coats were entirely banished from the ball room, and 
gloves more generally introduced. In a company, 
for the most part, so select as that now here, the 
improprieties in dress above alluded to, strikes one 
the more glaring. 



86 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Thursday, August — . 

This is the commencement of August, called the 
gay month, and persons are flocking here from all 
quarters ; more than fifty each day have to be de- 
nied admittance. The southerners, from the lower 
counties of Virginia and elsewhere continue to arrive, 
most of them have cabins provided, and their coming 
is anticipated. 

After breakfast this morning, we returned to our 
cabins, and remained on the piazza chatting with 
our neighbours, and watching the departure of 
the gentlemen for the hunt ; this is the beginning 
of the hunting season, and their preparations are all 
new to us. 

After reading the letters from home, I took my 

work and sat all the morning with dear Mrs. , 

who is, without exception, one of the most charming 
old ladies I have ever met with; I found her con- 
versation so instructive and interesting, that I re- 
mained with her until the appearance of the cake 
man reminded me that it was after twelve. This 
person is of no little importance here ; he carries a 
large wooden tray, suspended from his shoulders by 
a leather strap, and on it is scattered in confusion 
cakes and crakers and candies ; he makes his rounds 
every day about noon, when, having nothing to do, 
we have time to feel hungry — he ever meets with 
a ready welcome. 



I 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 87 

At dinner every one was very gay. The gentle- 
men were in fine spirits at the success of their 
morning expedition, having brought in two fine deer, 

one of them said to have been killed by Col. H , 

of Carolina, who is invariably successful. 

After dinner, I went into the ball room to procure 
from the leader of the band a very beautiful waltz 
that is quite a favourite here, and as it was very 
warm, returned home, and spent the greater part of 

the afternoon in copying it. At sundown, Mrs. 

called in her barouche with her niece and Mr. 

and asked me to ride. I readily acceded to her 
proposal, and the evening being very fine, we drove 
as far as the Greenbriar bridge, and from being 
inspired by the scenery, I suppose, we entered all 
of us into a very sentimental conversation. We 
staid out so late, that on our return we found tea 
was over, and all of the walks and lawns lined with 
the gay and happy. The table was not entirely 
cleared however, and we managed to have our 
supper very comfortably. We strolled round after- 
wards, to one of the white cottages, and found a 
laughing party engaged at cards, playing old maid, 
we remained until one of us was left with the queen, 
but had no patience to stay any longer. 

The ball was more brilUant than last evening, 
and when we left it, the moon was shining so bright- 



88 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

ly, and the night altogether so fine, that a party of 
us walked to the spring, to take our last glass of 
water there, instead of having it brought to us as 
usual. 

Saturday, . 



The President arrived last evening, a large party 
of gentlemen went out in carriages and on horsback, 
to meet him, and welcome him to the White Sulphur. 
The cavalcade came in about dark, in a cloud of 
dust. We have had no rain here for several weeks. 
The ball, it is thought, will be uncommonly attractive 
to-night, so many distinguished persons having ar- 
rived, and we have been practising the German 
cotillion and Spanish dance for the last two days, to 
make a sensation to-night. Our waltzing company 
is on the increase ; we have several now from New 
York, Baltimore, Washington, and Richmond^ 

Tuesday, . 



I find a blank space of two days in my journal. 
We have been talking over the events and pleasures 
of last night. The President was there, and a great 
many new comers. The ladies were more dressed 
than ordinary, and the music played remarkably 
well. We also had pretty bouquets sent us during 
the evening which we sported. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 89 

We had the Spanish dance, introduced here, first 
by a gay party of Floridians, and we all acquitted 

ourselves very v^^ell. Gen. H lead off with Mrs. 

. The company remained until after twelve 

o'clock. Miss of Virginia, dropped a very costly 

bracelet in the walk on Sunday evening — it was 
returned to her the same night, by a gentleman, with 
the following lines anonymously. 

Fair lady ! there ne'er was a pleasure like mine — 
That this bracelet which dropped from an arm so divine, 
Should by chance, so unlook'd for, have fallen to me, 
To restore the bright treasure uninjured to thee. 

It must have been sever'd, unlinked from its tie, 
By some throb of affection as tremulously 
From the deep spring, the heart, it unresistingly stole, 
And buoyantly broke from the passion's controul. 

But be that as it may, I fondly shall treasure 
The time, and that moment of joy and of pleasure, 
Wlien in transport of feeling, delighted I pressed. 
This pretty hijou, you so oft have caressed. 

Wednesday, . 

We remained at home this morning, and received 
a great many visitors. C. keeps a Hst of all who 
call during the day. We have had a discussion 
with several gentlemen as to the exact height of the 
Venus de Medici, the standard for all beauties; there 

was much differing on the subject : Mr. said 

8* 



90 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

her height was four feet two inches, and Mr. 

was certain she was five feet four, while Mr. 

who had seen the original at Florence, denied her 
being over four foot nine inches, in the position she 
stands. It was well perhaps that the point was un- 
decided, as several ladies who were present, can 
now liken themselves to the Venus in stature. 

We are to have a musical party this evening — a 
concert ! and have been very busy all the afternoon 
in arranging and enlarging our drawing-room. We 
expect something of a squeeze. The gentlemen wall 
have to occupy the piazza, and we must borrow all 
of our neighbours' chairs. 

Thursday, . 

Our soiree musicale, went off delightfully last 
evening, every one came, w€ expected, and we had 

some very fine music. Mrs. , of Nashville, 

sang the " Banks of Ganges" with the guitar, and 

accompanied by Mr. , with his voice and violin, 

and the sweet little song of "My Normandy." Mrs. 

, of Mobile, also charmed us with some pretty 

Spanish airs on the guitar. 

We have set the fashion, and concerts are to be 
the rage. Mrs. promises one to-morrow^ even- 
ing at the veranda, and Miss will have one 

next week at the colonnade. We must so arrange 
it as not to interfere with the ball. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 91 



Friday, 



Captain Marryat, the celebrated novelist, has 
been here for some days. We had a long conver- 
sation yesterday upon many pleasant topics, and I 
was agreeably disappointed from what had been 
said of his rough manners and address. He is 
perhaps not very prepossessing in his appearance at 
first, being a thick set, gruff-looking man, and liaving 
a reserved look to a stranger ; but this soon v/ears 
off on an acquaintance, and his eye has a sparkle of 
life and humor ; and he has much anecdote. 

In speaking yesterday, of one of the great poets 
of England of the present day, he said it was some- 
what curious, that the person to whom he went to 
school in his young days, and by whom he had been 
flogged so often, that after he had become the editor 
of the Metropolitan, he should then have had the 
pleasure of paying him back in coin, at the rate of 
so many guineas for each flagellation. 

The phrenologists here have been to request an 
examination of his head. He showed us the chart; 
Ideality, very large — Humor, large — Wit, very little. 
It also makes him out a very modest and diffident 
man, which the captain says, is about the only point 
on which the disciples of Combe agree in relation 

to him. 

5* 



92 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

He says he never commenced writing, for publi- 
cation, until as late as 1829. He has written with 
great rapidity since. We should infer, from his 
conversation, that he prefers the " King's-Own" to 
most of his works, and after that, the "Pacha of 
Many Tales." 

He is writing a book on America. I hope he will 
speak well of our party, and not forget the ladies he 
danced with, at the White Sulphur. 

Saturday, . 

It rained during part of this morning, which made 
the ground so wet, as to oblige us not only to break- 
fast, but dine and sup in our cabin. It is amusing, 
such a day as this, to watch the waiters going in 
every direction, carrying the various meals to the 
different cabins. 

Mrs. L and her daughter, being next door 

neighbours, came in to dine with us, and Mr. P 

and several gentlemen joined us at tea in the porch. 
We sat until after ten o'clock, listening to the news 
of the day, and were about retiring, when the sound 

of Mr. 's guitar, in Paradise row, induced us 

to remain awhile, to listen to its delightful tones, 
whi^h he can so well draw out. 

" Were it some hours later," said B , " I should 

magine the music proceeded from the lute of the 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 93 

White Phantom." He was instantly called upon 
to explain. " Do you not know " replied he, " that 
every dark night, as the clock strikes twelve, there 
is to be seen, a phantom lady in white, on the hill 
behind Paradise row, who walks slowly round the 
brow of it, singing to a silver lute, sometimes a 
guitar, and should any serenader protract his song 
until that late hour, she immediately joins him in his 
hymn to beauty." 

This is firmly believed, I assure you, continued 
he, by many persons near here, and indeed I thought 
one night I had the fortune to behold her, but on 
nearer approach, I discovered what I took to be her 
flowing robe, only a table cloth, left hanging on the 
trees by some careless laundress, and the sound of 
her lute was only the echo of my own instrument, 
nevertheless you must not doubt her existence. We 
promised to keep a good look out for the white 
lady, and bade our company good night. 



94 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

BALLAD. 

Lady in white ! 

Who walks't at night, 
Alone at the dreary hour, 

Come tell to me, 

If thou art she, 
Who haunts the wood and bower. 

" Yes, I am she. 
Who wanders free. 

O'er the hills of Paradise ; 
And vigil keeps, 
While beauty sleeps, 

And watch till darkness flies. 

I once was gay, 

I love the day. 
But doom'd by a fairy's power, 

When the moon is dull. 

By the beautiful, 
I roam at the midnight hour. 

I music bring. 

And often fling 
Leaves of the sweetest roses, 

Where beauty lies, 

With half closed eyes, 
And modestly reposes." 

Lady in white ! 

Thy words are bright, 
Come bring thy music and flowers, 

Come wander here. 

From year to year, 
And rest in our woods and bowers. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 95 

Monday, . 

We went to Lovers' Retreat, this evening, for the 
first time. C. and I., w^ith two gentlemen, who call- 
ed for us at the appointed time, five o'clock. Upon 
going to the door, we were a little surprised to know 

that we were to walk, but Mr. said that it 

would spoil the poetry of the expedition, if we were 
to ride, and besides, the place was unapproachable 
in a carriage ; so we started, and rambled through 
the woods for more than two miles over bramble 
and briar, and at last came to this much-celebrated 
spot, in a very lonely part of the wood, which had 
been the scene of so many courtships, and romantic 
adventures ; which had been written in verse, and 
meted in song. We sat down by the side of the 
large rock, where many had whispered before us. 
and tried to feel very sentimental. 

The trees in our immediate presence, were carved 
with names and initials, some of which the bark had 
overgrown, and many were unintelligible. One of 
the gentlemen with us was very conversant with all 
the technicalities of the spot, having been here 
frequently before; and gave as many interesting 
descriptions of the persons who had figured here at 
various times, with many amusing details. 

He asked us if we had never heard the story of 
the Count: he said it was a romance in real life — 



96 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

a story of every day — and that he had been an eye- 
witness to many of the leading incidents of the 
di'ama. 

About four years ago, continued he, there came 
to the White Sulphur, during the most fashionable 
season, an elderly lady and her daughter, from the 
north. The daughter was reputed wealthy, too 
wealthy for men of moderate pretensions to make 
their advances, and none sought an introduction; 
and even if they wished it, who knew them? They 
never came to the ball room, and their only escort 
appeared to be a foreign Count — he attended them 
to their meals, and in their walks ; and while in public, 
his attention was most marked to the mother ; in 
the sylvan shades, it was said, he was most fasci- 
nated with the young lady. 

A gayer company of some four hundred had never 
perhaps assembled, than was at the White Sulphur 
during the summer of 183-. The belles were many 
and beautiful, the balls were crowded, and the green 
lawn each evening presented a fairy scene, in groups 
of ladies and gentlemen, straying like gypsying par- 
ties through the walks and groves, and the delightful 
interchanges of visits from one bright cottage to 
another, rendered a month of such enjoyment, an 
eve of real pleasure in the life of a visitor. Almost 
the entire company seemed in their social inter- 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 97 

course, as though they all belonged to the same 
household, or had been acquainted for years. 

There were three visitors, the two ladies and the 
Count, who kept aloof, and had no social intermin- 
gling with the rest. They had spent over a fortnight 
at the Springs, without making scarcely a single 
acquaintance. Conduct so marked, could not fail, 
in such a company, to draw forth remarks and sur- 
mises. The Count was still assiduous in his atten- 
tions to the daughter. They would stroll to ' Lover's 
Retreat' in the evening, and sing duets over the 
piano, when no one was present. 

It was rumored they were engaged, and many 

said that while the mother liked the Count for his 

title, the Count courted the daughter for her wealth. 

They had been here about three weeks, when the 

young lady, one evening, made her first appearance 

in the ball room. Its attractions had been thrown 

out to her by a gentleman who, by some means, had 

made her acquaintance, and she had been prevailed 

on to attend. She was much admired for her figure 

and grace, and she danced and enjoyed herself very 

much. Many gentlemen claimed an mtroduction ; 

she was courted, and surrounded — she became a 

Belle. Many gallants were in her train next day, 

while the poor Count was evidently thrown in the 

back ground. 

9 



98 WHITE SULPHUR P A P E R Sc 

It was at this time, (continued B.) that I became 
acquainted with the Count, and found him a very 
clever person; he was evidently very much in love, 
and almosti-distracted at the growing coolness of the 
lady. 

It w^as said, that she never really encouraged his 
attentions, and that but for the mother, she w^ould 
have avoided a frequent intercourse, and knowing 
no one at the time, she was somewhat dependant on 
him. 

A few wrecks w^ent by, the lady still a Belle, and 
the Count evidently neglected. 

The season passed, and the party left the Springs. 
On their arrival at Philadelphia, at a boarding house, 
whither the Count followed, (it was at a boarding 
house where he had first seen her.) — The lady wrote 
him a letter, forbidding his further visits or atten- 
tions. The next morning, the Count was dead — he 
had taken laudanum on the night, he received the 
letter discarding him, and had dreamed away exis- 
tence. 

" Nothing in his life 



Became Mm hke the leaving it : he died 
As one that had been studied in his death 
To throw away, the dearest tiling he owned, 
As 'twere a careless trifle." 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 99 

Wednesday, . 

Our kind friend, Mr. , has been to visit us 

this morning, bringing with him his rods and fishing 
tackle, and leaving for us a basket of little delicacies 
which he had caught in the creek. He says he 
came to the Springs, determined to enjoy himself in 
his own way, and he spends his mornings in ram- 
bling and angling, and collecting shells and fossils 
from the banks of the many streams, and exploring 
the curiosities of the neighbourhood. He says there 
are glades, and tumbling cataracts, and cascades, 
and shady retreats all around, that none of us gay 
people ever visit or hear of, and that on the top of 
one of the mountains directly over us, is a glassy 
lake where the wild deer come to drink at all hours. 
He visits the old men in the mountains, some of 
them the original settlers, who give him the history 
of the country, and he learns from them many 
curious stories. 

He has been prevailing on us to accompany him 
in one of his morning tours, and gather wild flowers, 

and has promised C to make her a collection 

of pretty butterflies. He says he hears that we are 
great Belles, and while other gentlemen dance with 
us, he'll fish for us. He tells us, moreover, that the 
White Sulphur water is very serviceable to the 
teeth, and that the frequent use of it has a wonderful 
effect in improving the complexion. 



100 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Friday, • 

A travelling museum has been in the neighbour- 
hood for some days, which a great many have beeti 
to see. This evening, v\^hen the company had gone 

to tea, C. and I. and Aunt, and Mr. went to 

make it a visit, feeling inclined for novelty in any 
shape. There were two large wagons painted red, 
and joined together, making two apartments, where 
the curiosities were displayed in their grotesque 
order. It was Peale's museum in miniature, for 
they appeared to have a little of every thing curious, 
wolves, bears, wax figures, Indian dresses and 
arrows, a large crocodile, shells, minerals, and many 
strings of rattles. 

Among the many beautifully prepared birds, was 
a large white Albatross, of rare size, the first w^ 
had ever seen. The poet Coleridge has immortal- 
ized this bird, and we looked upon it with more 
interest than any thing in the collection. The keeper 
gave us most glowing and fancy descriptions of all 
the wonders of his cabinet. One of the wax figures 
represented Alexander Selkirk, and he assured us, 
that the rusty pistol in his hand was the very same 
which this celebrated personage had used while in 
solitude on the island. 

We left the Museum, and continued our stroll to 
the top of the hill, near the Colonnade, where we 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 101 

joined the promenaders, who had returned from tea. 
and were enjoying the fine views which is here had 
at sunset. 

We came home, where C — found a bouquet filled 
with ambrosia and mignionette, which had been 
sent to her, and which determined her to go to the 
ball this evening ; although to-morrow will be the 
day of the great pic-nic. 

LINES TO THE ALBATROSS. 

Bird of the light and snowy wing ! 

Fair harbinger of cheer !— 
Whither now, from thy wandering, 

Say, Albatross ! why here 1 

Thy home is in the far off isles. 

Beyond the southern sea, 
In lands where summer never smiles ; 

No visitant but thee. 

Wliere hast thou been 1 — what hast thou seen ^ 

In crossing o'er the main, 
Wlien floating Uke an airy queen, 

Above the winds and rain. 

\Mien didst thou live ] — where is thy mate ? 

Wliat sailor captured thee 1 
While thou wert in the air elate, 

With pinions broad and free. 



102 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

I follow thee, thro' ether sky, 

I am with thee and thine ; 
I see thee from the dolphin fly, 

And leave the fisher's line. 

I live with thee — thro' many days 

Of storm and tempest loud, — 
And hear thee sing thy evening lays 

Above the flapping shroud. 

I hear thy scream of wildest note, — 

A rifted wreck goes by ; 
Thy dirge is o'er a lifeless boat, 

The sea gives up a sigh. 

Proud bird ! thou hast been sailing long 

All over sea and shore. 
But none again will hear thy song. 

Thy wing will tire no more. 

Wliat brought thee death I do not know, 

But Albatross. I fear 
. It reach'd thee from some whizzing bow 

Of ancient Mariner. 

Monday f . 

This morning being the one fixed on for the great 
pic-nic, which had been in agitation for the last 
week, many an anxious eye was turned towards 
the sky to ascertain if it was favourable to om^ 
wishes and the proposed amusement of the day. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 103 

All above, gave promise of the full enjoyment hoped 
for below. Contrary to the usual custom, there 
was no stopping after breakfast to chat in the ball 
room, nor loitering at the Spring or on the walk, but 
all (the ladies) hastily retreated to their cabins to 
change their morning costume, and decide upon one 
more becoming the day's excursion. Dresses, that 
had long been imprisoned in the imperial, were now 
brought out, to do honor to the occasion. As each 
lady had been requested to don her favourite colour, 
no little hesitation ensued as to the adoption of blue, 

pink, green, &c. Even good old Mrs. entered 

into the excitement, and emancipated from the band 
box, a new blonde cap, that had been carefully put 
by in reservation for the President's reception. 

We had the pleasure of seeing depart at an early 
hour the wagon, containing the numerous refresh- 
ments, and about ten o'clock, the sound of many 
carriages approaching the different rows to receive 
their destined inmates — the cries of children at being 
left behind — the calling of Mamas for their daugh- 
ters, who having been ready for the last half hour, 
were now making sure, at their glasses, of their 
bonnets being tied, with a due regard to a becoming 
inclination to their left side, their ringlets being just 
enough out of curl to look interesting ; and the merry 
laugh of these as returning with renewed confidence, 



104 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

they jumped gayly into the carriage, family barouche 
— or more exckissive buggy, all announced the sig- 
nal of departure, and in obedience to its call, we 
were every one on our way to the scene of enchant- 
ment, by eleven o'clock. 

Every description of vehicle on the place was put 
in requisition; even an old sleigh was allowed to 
remain stationary only because wheels could not be 
found to attach to it. We followed the Lewisburg 
road, as far as Greenbriar mountain, then diverging 
suddenly, we found ourselves free from dust, and 
pursuing a winding road through the woods; at 
about twelve o'clock, we were brought within a 
quarter of a mile of our destination ; this last part of 
our jaunt we were to make on foot, much to the 
distress of Miss Lilly, who never having been on a 
pic-nic in the mountains, picturing to herself a smooth 
turf and a dance on the green, had ventured out in 
satin shoes, which were bul little calculated to en- 
counter the stones, logs, and brambles which we 
were now crossing at every step. 

The spot selected for our rendezvous was a large 
gi'een, some yards in extent, enclosed on one side by 
abrupt and overhanging rocks at whose base, bub- 
bled a clear and beautiful spring, and precluded 
from the road by rows of thick branching trees. 
Around were thrown immense logs of trees, wliich 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 105 

were to serve us as seats, and the wild rose and 
honey-suckle were growing in the vicinity. 

A table of rude planks had been hastily put toge- 
ther, on which the servants were busily employed 
in laying the cloth, and making the necessary prepa- 
rations for our dejeuner a la forxhette. And as an 
hour would elapse before their arrangements would 
be completed, the merriest of us determined to 
employ our time on a voyage of discovery through 
the neighbouring woods. 

We wandered for half an hour, penetrating the 
darkest and most romantic looking glades, and 
making bouquets and wreaths of the wild flowers. 
Our progress at one time was somewhat retarded 
oy a broad stream, which required no little activity 

to clear. Miss J being somewhat timid, Mr. 

gallantly caught her up in his arms, and bore 

her across, amid the bravos of the gentlemen, and 
the approving smiles of the ladies. 

Upon our return, we found the rest of the com- 
pany in high glee, and awaiting our reappearance. 
The collation had by this time been spread, and very 
soon the champaigne was circulating, and merriment 
prevailed, while the band of music, stationed in the 
trees at a little distance, played their sweetest tunes, 
tliough their sounds were nearly lost in the peals of 
our own laughter and delight. Chairs being scarce, 



106 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

many preferred taking their cold chicken iete a tete 
on a log, or forming a partie carree on some neigh- 
bouring stumps made comfortable seats, by the gen- 
tlemen converting their cloaks into cushions. Mr. 
, of Virginia, sung his charming songs, accom- 
panied by his guitar, his example was followed by 
several of the company, ladies and gentlemen, and 
four hours went by gaily and swdftly. 

The younger portion were somewhat startled at 
being told that it was time to go. Some one of the 
party had a London paper, printed in gold letters, 
giving an accoimt of the late coronation, and before 

we departed, at the suggestion of Mr. , we 

all drank, in champaigne, the health of Queen 
Victoria ! 

We arrived at the Springs in fine time for the ball, 
which passed off in uncommon brilliancy. Miss 
Lilly's satin slipper came into play, with much more 
effect than in our morning's ramble, and she enjoyed 
her dance to the utmost, though it was not on a 
green turf, and after a shepherd's pipe. 

Tuesday, . 



The pic-nic of yesterday, and the ball of last night, 
have been all the talk to-day. The ball was uncom- 
monly brilliant and the dancer's were gay and spi- 
rited. The L 's were to have left this morning 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 701 

and this was their farewell ball ; we lose at their 
departure some of our most esteemed acquaintances, 
who have joined with us in all our sports for the last 
six weeks. This is one of the horrors of a watering 
place : the parting with friends with whom we have 
been thrown together in so many intimate ways 
during the season, and friendships thus formed by 
persons who are strangers on their first meeting, are 
generally of the most agreeable and endearing kind, 
and often the most lasting^. 

We have had much of the scene of last night be- 
fore us, in our cabin this morning, from the amuse- 

ing descriptions of persons and things^ by P . 

He is a great caricaturist, but is very good natured. 
This is a talent which is entertaining at tim.es, when 
not too far indulged in, or too much encouraged. 
He says there was no room for him to dance, so he 
took his station by the piano as an observer. 

He described all the elderly ladies seated round 
the room on the settees, with their blonde caps, giv- 
ing countenance to the dance, and with the double 
view of engaging the attention of a diptinguished 
Bachelor. The young women who stand in each 
recess in groups, knowing no partner, and not danc- 
ing, he styles as wall-flowers. He decries most vehe- 
mently against gentlemen carrying their hats in the 
cotillion, as a mark of indifference to their partners 



108 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

and the other dancers. And he says that the country 
beaus who appear with their black stocks and big 
shoes eat up all the refreshments. We never knew ' 
before, that the entertainments which are so abun- 
dantly supplied at the balls, is afforded by the liber- 
ality of the proprietors. Waiters are handed during 
all the evening with wine and other inviting nic-nacs. 

In the great variety of dressing here, and in the 
eccentricities of taste, many ladies of very small 

stature wear feathers and turbans, which P - 

describes as very unbecoming. 

He thinks it requires a woman of very fine figure 
and appearance to do credit, to a feather or a tur- 
ban. In alluding to a young lady who persists in 
wearing a red spencer every night; he assured us 
that it was not the damsel's fault — that she w^as quite 
uneasy in her dress, and averse to coming to the 
balls, but that her grandma each evening after tea, 
fastens on her red jacket, and bids her go forth to 
subdue and make her fortune. 

He told us, our remarks on dress, reminded him of 
having once been at an election ball at a tavern 
somewhere in Maryland, where he was introduced 
to the daughter of the host, a pretty sprightly girl ; 
that when he first saw her she was dressed in white, 
— and at the close of every two sets of cotillions, 
she would disappear, and reappear in a new color. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 109 

He had seen her in white, pink, blue, green, and yel- 
low, and upon complimenting her on her last appear- 
ance, she remarked that "she had only made six 
changes, that there was one more to come, and then 
she should shine." 

Thursday, . 



We have been occupied this morning in pressing 
flowers, many of them wild ones, which grow in 
such luxuriance here, and some of rare beauty. We 
will take them home, and they will serve to remind 
us at some future day, of our present enjoyments and 
pleasures. 

Some several years hence they will look as fresh 
as ever, and the rose leaves will have a sweeter per- 
fume than now ; while our faces may be withered 
and we no no longer beautiful. Horrid thought, — 
but nevertheless 'tis true. Some of these flowers 
have been presents to us from friends we may never 
see again, and some we have gathered on sunny 
mornings in the woods, when all around us was 
bright and beautiful, and gay hearts accompanied 
us. 

They will remain here in their imprisoned sheets, 
silent but speaking memorials of days that were fra- 
grant to us. 



10 



110 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

The most minute incidents of our life, often lead to 
the most important results in our after dealings, and 
those whose lives are most crowded with strongly 
marked events, can generally trace their origin to 
some trifling circumstance, hardly chronicled in the 
memory on the occurrence, and that would quickly 
fade from the mind if they were not really the start- 
ing links in the great chain of human events. 

How often has a kind look given the first impulse 
to the quick throb of love so ever ready to vibrate 
in the human heart. How often has a leaf been the 
mute though eloquent messenger of communicating 
tender thoughts from heart to heart, and finally 
united in destiny, the giver and receiver. How of- 
ten too alas ! has the slightest incidents separated 
for ever, those who but for its occurrence, would 
have united in one, like two summer clouds; or 
tnoved in unison like the meeting of two mountain 
streams. 

August 25th, 

The gentlemen have all gone to a great dinner 
given to the President, at the Greenbriar bridgeto-day, 
-and the ladies are left entirely to themselves. 1 

sent some English newspapers to Mrs. this 

morning, which we had received from New York. 
She is very fond of such reading, and though no one 
line escapes her vigilance, her memory is so short, 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. Ill 

or SO little troubled with what she reads, that you 
jnay send her the same journal three times over, 
and she will peruse it as eagerly as at first. This is 
the last week in August, and many talk of leaving 
very soon. A large number of our acquaintances 
are only waiting for rain. Our Baltimore friends 
in Carolina Row, leave us to-morrow. They will 
remain one week at the Sweet Springs, then to the 
Warm — the great gathering place at the close of the 
season, and then home. 

As the hour of parting and the close of the season 
draw near, we all begin to feel a little melancholy, 
but there must be an end to all pleasure, and why 
should we grieve, who have run through such a 
season of delight. 

Thanks to some Troubadoui-s for a sweet seren- 
ade last night. 

Sept. 4. 

More than two hundred persons, nearly one half 
of our company, will leave here by Saturday, and 
in another week there will not perhaps be one hun- 
dred at the White Sulphur. We remain near two 
weeks longer. We understand from those who have 
experienced it, that the latter part of September is 
the most pleasant period in the mountains, and that 
during the month of October, they have here, the 
finest Indian Summer, which continues until near 



112 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Christmas. Most persons leave here too soon. On 
the general day of breaking up, the first Monday in 
September ; all follow, save a few Southern families, 
and some of the lovers of nature. 

The President is at the Sweet Springs, and we 
hear the place is crowded with company. 

The ladies of our party, and a few of our friends, 
are going on a serenading expedition to night. 

Septejnher 10. 

# * * * * 

Another week gone, and nearly all our friends 
have departed, we have been taking leave during 
that time — each morning and evening with tears in 
our eyes of our many acquaintances. The S's. were 
the last to leave us to-day, as their carriage drove 
round by Carolina Row, the gentlemen and nearly 
all the company present waved their handkerchiefs, 
and they departed with universal regret. We all 
felt lonely for the remainder of the day. 

Several entire rows are closed ; and the lawn is 
quite silent. Mr. Anderson is not so busy now, he 
has called at our cabin several times in the last few 
days, to know if we wanted a chair or a second 
table. 

The ball room is deserted ; we formed but one 
cotillion last evening, and the musicians seemed quite 
out of spirits. 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 113 

The evenings are now most beautiful for walking 
and driving. 

I took a solitary walk this evening to the top of 
the hill, near the Colonnade, and sat down, and thought 
of all that had passed since our first arrival at the 
Springs. It was at the time of sunset, and the golden 
hues were tinging the green trees of the moun- 
tains ; the air was soft — the sky unclouded ; singu- 
lar feelings came over me, and I fell into a dreaming 
reverie. 

Are there not times ? say Mrs. Jamieson — " when 
we turn with indifference from the finest picture of 
nature — the most impro vmg book — the most amusing 
poem ; and when the very commonest and every 
day beauties of nature, a soft evening, a lovely land- 
scape, the moon riding in her glory through a cloud- 
ed sky, without forcing or asking our attention sink 
into our hearts ?" 

I thought of the many bright faces, and gay 
hearts, with whom we had mingled this summer — 
the loves, and the courtships — and the pleasures of 
each passing day. All were now gone. The com- 
pany had separated for their respective homes : 
Some had come, fresh, and alive for novelty and 
enjoyment, and had left delighted: Some with hearts 
beating with love, and anxious for conquest, had gone 
away disappointed. Some who had been more for- 
10* 



114 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

tunate in their feelings, and attachments ; and in the 
attentions they had received, had left, pleased, and 
anticipating future happiness. 



September 12. 



We have had a letter from the Warm Springs, 
the place is thronging with company, and they all 
knowing each other, enjoy themselves exceedingly. 
The ball room w^e hear is very brilliant, and all are 
in the finest spirits. 

They make excursione there, during the evening, 
to the Warm Spring Rock, to the top of which a 
Virginia lady once ascended on horseback ; where 
they the eye feasted, and the soul drink in inspiration 
from the glorious beauties of the surrounding 
scenery. 

Near the Warm Springs also, is a tumbling cata- 
ract, of more than two hundred feet in fall, which 
but few have ever visited. We shall certainly go 
there on our return. 

We are to leave the White Sulphur to-morrow 
morning after breakfast. We have been round to 
take leave of all who are here. We have visited 
for the last time, this evening, each spot made dear 



JOURNAL OF A LADY. 115 

to US from association ; and taken a lingering fare- 
well look of them all. 

We looked in at the ball room at nine o'clock. 
There were but four ladies present, and the music 
was endeavouring in vain to call forth the spirit of 
the dance. 

I am afraid to read to night anything what I have 
heretofore written in my journal. I have been re- 
creant to my intention ; have put down but half what 
I should ; and neglected to insert many better things, 
Hark, there is music ; 'tis a farewell serenade be- 
neath our window. They are playing and singing 
" Home, sweet home." 



No whisper ! — hear 

That soft, sweet song, 

To me most dear. 

I've lov'd it long. 
It comes to me at the silent night, 
And it fills the soul with calm dehght. 

I've heard that strain 

In times before, 

Breathe it again ; 

I'll ask no more. 
My heart goes back — and I long to roam, 
In the garden paths of my own home. 



116 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Thursday, Sept. 13,- -. 

We have breakfasted. Our carriages are at the 
door, and we will leave it in a few minutes. Our 
friends are in the piazza, come to say " Good bye.'* 
These are the last lines I shall write in my journal, 
and I have but one moment more. The maid who 
is strapping my trunk, is almost in tears ; and says 
she is sorry we are going. 

We are called. I must conclude. Farewell, 
White Sulphur. Farewell to thy scenes and thy 
pleasures, and thy oak shades, and thy beautiful 
fountain ; farewell to Paradise Row, and the Gothic 
cottage, and the Colonnade. Good bye, Mr. Ander- 
son; good bye, Davy, Duncan. Farewell to you 
all! 



THE STORY OF A CRUTCH. 



119 



CHAP. X, 



THE STORY OF A CRUTCH, 



PART 



They call me an old crutch now. I don't know 
what I may be hereafter; but I too dearly remem- 
ber what I have been. I wish I was back in my 
primitive days again, showering down acorns from 
the old oak on the little boys, and where the wild 
pigeons came twice a year and made love on the 
branches, and told of the sights they had seen in 
other places far away. Those were happy times'; 
there's pleasure in the woods. 

It was an evil hour when the chopper came, and 
with his axe felled the lofty pride of the forest — so 
all used to call our tree as they passed. I remember 
having been carried along with other timber to the 
navy yard at Philadelphia, where I remained for 
some time. Parts of our old parent went off to sea 
in ships ; but I was thrown by, being a small affair, 



120 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

among the waste wood. When, one day, oh ! horror 
of horrors ! I was manufactured into a crutch, for an 
invahd sailor, at the marine hospital. 

My master had been in the wars in early life, and 
had fought in the battles of his country on lake Erie, 
where he had been slightly w^ounded, and now was 
a pensioned sufferer on the government. He was a 
right good old man; but, whenever he got excited, 
fighting over the last action, which he did to every 
new comsr, he would bring me down on the stone 
pavement, or iron railing, or some other hard sub- 
stance, and I became near being banged to a splinter ; 
then it was that I thought of the pigeons, and the 
acorns, and wished that I had been sent to sea with 
mast and spar. 

My old master at length took sick, and was con- 
fined to his straw bed for some months; during 
which time, I had some respite in walking, but was 
used as a call-boy, by pounding the floor twenty 
times a day. I was demanded one morning, in a 
case of necessity, for an officer who came to the 
hospital with a fractured leg, and having been orna- 
mented with a red cushion at top, and sawed off two 
inches below, (no end to my sufferings,) I became 
the supporter of dignity with an epaulet. 

I was not confined, however, to the precincts of 
the sailors' enclosure any more, but made occasional 



STORY OF A CRUTCH. 131 

excursions with my new master, who was fast 
recovering, into the city, and among the fashions of 
Chestnut-street. 

The lieutenant soon became as tii ed of his quar- 
ters as I was, and to our gratification, was invited 
by a relation to remain in the city. I soon parted 
from him, however, for, recovering from his wound, 
he had no further service for me, and he made me 
a present to an old friend, a sea captain, who had 
just returned in a merchantman from a long cruise, 
and was confined with the gout at the City hotel, 
where I was condemned to undergo all the tortures 
of his bad temper. My master would sit in his room 
at night, drinking brandy and water, and, stirring me 
around in the fire, would say, "I'll burn my crutch if 
I don't have vengeance." He always swore by his 
crutch. 

One night he took it into his head that he would 
go to the theatre ; whilst there, in the saloon, taking 
imaginary offence from the remark of some by-stand- 
er, he raised me, and struck the gentleman over the 
head ; and, in the disturbance and row that followed, 
crutch and captain were taken to the watch-house 
forthwith. Here, while the evidence was being given, 
I was handled by watchmen, and gazed at by 
the crowd ; the captain all the time swearing like a 
trooper. Bail was given, and we were released from 
11 



122 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

the wretched hole. The captain never left his room 
after that night ; he went off suddenly, very shortly 
afterwards, with an apoplectic fit, brought on by hard 
dr'mk. 

In a few days I was carried, along with the effects 
of my late owner, to auction, and sold, ay sold, for 
a less sum than was given for the brass tacks in my 
cusliion. 

I was bought by a physician, who wanted me for 
a patient that had been suffering a long time with 
a complication of diseases, and with the most acute 
pains in his limbs. He had tried every remedy 
recommended by the faculty, and visited many of 
the principal watering places, without effect. I am 
now with this gentleman, a man of large fortune 
and taste ; but w^ho is deprived of every enjoyment 
on account of his health. 

He has at last been recommended by some wise 
person to bathe in the waters of the Hot Springs, in 
Virginia ; and thither we depart to-morrow morning. 
I am delighted at this ; for, ever since the fracas at 
the theatre, and the scene at the watch-house, I have 
been anxious to leave this place, and get among 
new people and scenes. 



STORY OF A CRUTCH. 123 



PART II. 



It is related that a gentleman came to the Hot 
Springs from the north, in a very low state of health; 
he came there to bathe, but being too feeble to pro- 
ceed as far as the White Sulphur, to drink those 
waters preparatory to using the bath, they were 
brought fresh to him regularly every morning, at 
some expense, from that place. In a week or two 
he commenced bathing, and tried them all — the 
spout-bath, the boiler, and the pleasure-bath; and 
was soon able to take part in the raging amusements 
of the place — chess and backgammon; and he 
looked forward very anxiously to the day when he 
migh join the dancers at the other Springs. He was 
often tempted, as it was, to ride over to the Warm, 
and look in on the ball-room, but he was ashamed 
of his crutch in such company ; and supported by 
this faithful companion under his right shoulder, he 
would often soliloquize, and lament his hard fate. 
He Httle knew the virtues of this crutch. 

One morning, after some weeks of continual 
bathing and care, he went into the pleasure-bath, 
still requiring the assistance of his crutch. Therd 
was no one in the bath that morning. He thought 
he felt uncommonly well ; his whole frame seemed 
more elastic than usual ; his spirits were exhilarated 



124 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS 

to a greater degree than he had known them for 
years ; he was once more in Chestnut-street. He 
stood erect; he walked over the bath a well man, 
without any assistance. After his first transports of 
delight, he suddenly thought of his crutch ; it was 
not with him. Had it left him, or had he come into 
the bath without it? Certainly not. Where was 
it? He passed his hands over his eyes ; was he 
dreaming? There was the crutch directly opposite, 
in the same erect attitude as himself. He advanced 
towards it ; followed it round and round the bath 
many times, surprised at his own vigor and activity. 
The crutch in his imagination assumed a new shape ; 
he thought he saw a dancing leg capering in the 
stream; he tried his own; they were well and nim- 
ble. He heard an approaching noise of the cripples 
coming in at their regular time. What w^ould happen 
now? He was a man of reading and romance, and 
had heard of stranger things and wasn't disposed to 
be over curious or surprised ; he determined to keep 
the secret, and left the bath. 

The cripples entered the bath ; they saw notliing 
surprising. In a little while, one who had been a 
bather much longer than the rest, thought he saw 
a leg; he pursued it in silence, until he danced him- 
self; he kept the secret for fear of being laughed at. 

How many have since followed that leg around 



STORY OF A CRUTCH. 125 

this stream, it has never been known; but there it 
is said to be still dancing, invisible to all but the 
helpless sojourner, who only beholds it after some 
weeks of probation at the Springs, 

The original invalid who came with the crutch 
to the Springs, left very suddenly, to avoid all ques- 
tions and remarks on his recovery ; and often after- 
wards, whenever he heard that a friend had gone 
to the Springs, would be heard to remark, 'I hope 
he may see the dancing leg.' 



11 



126 



CHAP. XL 



BEAVER-DAM FALLS THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 



Among the many attractive spots for wild scenery, 
and natural curiosities, v^hich have as yet been 
discovered in this picturesque region of our land, are 
Beaver-Dam Falls, within a few miles of the Sweet 
Springs. It is a favorite drive of an afternoon for 
many gay parties of pleasure from the Sweet, and 
many come over from the White Sulphur to write 
poetry under the shade of the dark rocks, and hsten 
to the singular murmuring of the waters which 
abound with petrefactions of the prettiest kind. 

It is off from the road in a silent retreat, where the 
old trees which have been flourishing there for cen- 
turies, seem only to change their appearance in 
wearing a darker dress every year ; and look as if 
guarding the glassy stream which has for so lono^ a 



BEAVER-DAM FALLS. 127 

time reflected their branches, as part of their own 
province, defending it from the sun. The beavers 
formerly held possession of all this neighbourhood, 
and many of their little residences in the shape of 
bee-bives are still to be seen here. The dam at the 
Falls was fashioned by their own hands, and here 
they lived, until poetry and nature, giving way to 
civilization, the beavers left the country, or were 
annihilated. 

So romantic a place can hardly have failed to 
have given rise to tales of love and romance. Con- 
nected with its celebrity, is an incident of life of 
recent occurrence, which is here written in verse. 



THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 



131 



THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 



In times of late, there was a fair young maid ! 

Whose soft poetic and romantic mood, 
By shaded stream — and water fall and glade, 

Oft sent straying in her solitude. 

She was more handsome than some women are ; 

Dark eyes — fine form — and pretty foot withall 
And few maidens with her could compare, 

In dance, or grace, or waltzing at the ball. 

Ah me ! how many fine young men I've seen, 
Sighing for love of her, and twining flowers, 

In sweet bouquets, of pinks and myrtle green; 
To lend a fragrance to her laughing hours. 

In rides by day — in walks by silent night, 
But I misname , for in this happy place, 

There's nothing dark : — 'tis soft moon-light, 
Or day come back with poetry and grac&. 



132 THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 

At all these times, the courted and the gay; 

The hfe — the laughing beauty of the throng ; 
She gave so much to wing the time away. 

With flashing wit, with music, and with song. 

Some there were ; — you'll meet them every where 
They are, perhaps, at most a harmless set : 

Who said that other women were as fair ; 
And as for her they thought her a coquette. 

Their dark whispering often she had heard; 

But what cared she, to her it was the same 
If envy even in the fancy word, 

Did style her grace by any other name. 

But we digress — there was within a mile 
In distance, from the sweet, sweet Springs — 

How oft the thought of them an hour beguiles ; 
What witching joys their recollection brings. 

There was within a wild and rugged glen 

Half seen, half shaded from the passing view ; 

Where long ago the beaver made his den — 
A spot which legend and romance well knew. 



THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 133 

There was a rock, that hung above the stream, 
which softly flowed in beauty through the glade; 

And where it stopped, what broke its quiet dream 1 
The falling waters of a bright cascade. 

'Twas said if on that rock, engraven there 
By maiden hand, a lover read his name, 

That then by all most beautiful and fair. 

Her hand ! her snow-white hand, he then could claim. 

There she determined in a merry mood. 
To write a name that none of them could read. 

" 'Twill puzzle all," she said, " make a prelude 
To other farces" — but now to proceed. 

One evening, long before the sun had set ; 

On foot alone, on sportive mischief bent, 
This laughing girl whom many called coquette, 

Had reached the spot — too late then to repent. 

As then she thought : and now with light step stealing, 
She trembling walks ; she pauses — ^looks around ; 

But hush ! what noise 1 it comes now revealing 
No fearful thing; — the waters' murmuring sound. 

One step ; another : — she's there in her delight : 

Her trembhng hand with busy thoughts essayed 

To write some name — ^when giddy from the height 

She faUs in the basin of the bright cascade. 
12 



134 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

There like a Nai'd, beneath the water's play, 
Struggling, her confusion to recover, 

All in the dancing stream in fright she lay,] 
Until rescued by a gallant lover. 



Some months went by ; the scene was changed, and now 
Where fairy forms are gliding to and fro ; 

And brightest smiles are wreatliing every brow, 
The girl of summer days is bending low. 

A falling veil of snowy whiteness covers 
Her dark hair : her hand she disengages, 

To take the token given by all lovers — 

The ring — the marriage cement of all ages. 

She was a Bride — their daily bliss now heightens 
Of him — and her who was the courted maid I 

And 'mid the scenes their cherished mem'ry brightens. 
Is their adventure at the bright cascade. 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER AT THE 
SPRINGS 



137 



CHAR XII. 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER AT THE SPRINGS, 



The greatest variety of character is always to be 
met with at watering places ; and as our country 
is the land of originals, whoever goes forth in search 
of the curious and the picturesque, will be most 
certain to find it. 

Foreigners, travelling, generally have very singu- 
lar notions about us ; and mistaken ideas as to the 
topography of the country : astonished at its extent 
as they advance, and wondering if there can be any 
thing beyond. One would sometimes think that the 
United States was not laid down on the maps sold hi 
London and Paris. 

A Swiss gentleman, who had been some time at 
the north, made a jaunt last summer from the White 
Sulphur to Guyandotte, for the purpose, as he said, 
of taking a view of " de Mississippi." 

12* 



138 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

He was asked, on his return, how he Hked the 
looks of the mighty stream ; but he was very shy 
of the subject ever after. 

The Mississippi river is many miles from Guyan- 
dotte. 



Many enquiries were made this summer for Col. 
P — ., the former gallant master of ceremonies, per 
choice, of the ball-room at the White Sulphur. He 
had grown grey in the service of his country and 
the fair; and the belles and beaus of the last six 
seasons have many flattering notices of him in their 
journals and recollections of those days. 

The Colonel had a way of preserving, by his 
example and tact, the best order among the gen- 
tlemen and the dancers ; he regulated the musie ; 
introduced young ladies, who were strangers, to 
partners for the cotillion ; and a determined shake 
of the head from him, would throw a noviciate off 
his balance. 

He was a great favourite with the ladies and an 
asserter of their rigdts, and always had some humor- 
ous anecdote for them. He was the founder of a 
very useful society for the encouragement and pro- 
motion of marriage, which he very whimsically 



SKETCHES OP CHARACTER. 139 

Styled, " The Billing, Wooing and Cooing Society/' 
The articles of the constitution were written on a 
long roll of pink paper, manufactured for the pur- 
pose, and signed by no less than seventeen hundred 
gentlemen, from all parts of the United States. It 
hung in the ball room on the wall, (even on Smidays) 
where its advocates would be constantly reminded 
of their faults, whenever they went amiss ; and it is 
said to have had a very beneficial effect on many 
young men. 

Many will remember, when during the summer 
of thirty six, then late in the season, when the ladies 
had given up, from fatigue or their own reasons, 
attending the ball room every evening; how the 
Colonel, in despair at not having a dance, gallantly 
placed himself at the head of the band, and went 
round and serenaded them all. This last appeal 
was irresistible, and the attendance was large so 
long as the Colonel remained. 

We hope to have the pleasure of again meeting 
the amiable Colonel at the same agreeable place, 
superintending and providing new pleasures for the 
fair, and in restored health and excellent spirits. 



140 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

An hour at the Spring during the morning and 
evening, when the company all gather there, is the 
time for observation — where you may learn the 
news, survey the new comers ; and where diffident 
men take stolen glances at beauty. 

It is long before breakfast, just after sun rise, and 
rather cool; here comes a gentleman wrapped in 
his thick morning gown, with slippers and cap, he 
stops at the Spring, dips the long-handled glass and 
takes one draught ; he whistles himself awake, takes 
another, and then returns to Bachelor's row, to sleep 
an hour. There comes a maid with a pitcher to 
carry the cooling draught to some sleeping beauty 
in Paradise row. 

Two old gentlemen have come to the Spring; 
thev are discussinor the merits and o-reat benefits to 
be derived from the use of the waters. One of them 
says, he has been in the habit of taking six glasses 
for some mornings past, and he feels so much better, 
he believes he will now take eight. 

Numbers are commg in, impatient for their daily 
libations. Dyspepsia enters the area, weak and 
wasted ; he takes perhaps four glasses, and retires 
with a renervated walk. Hypochondria comes ; he 
sees no one for awhile, and will know no one ; he 
drinks one glass, seats himself, and in a little while 
has taken four more; he rises — tries to smile, and 
makes a remark on the weather. 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 141 

The reveller of last night, drinks several times 
vi^ith rapidity ; he feels refreshed, and exclaims-^ 

Cheering draught to the poisoned soul, 
When it has been steeped in the purple bowl. 



By this time, the area of the Spring is filling up. 
Ladies and young misses, old men w^ith canes, inva- 
lids, and early risers ; and often you may see the 
blooming face of some young fair one, who prefers 
the breath of the morning air, to sleeping until 
breakfast. 

There is a small pale man in black; he has taken 
a seat and is resting v^ith his chin on his cane; 
occasionally he raises his head, and gives an unmean- 
ing stare at some persons just entering the Spring- 
house, and v^^ith a look of apathy, he beholds, and 
hears the laughing talk of the gayer crowd around 
him. He is an invalid, and an entire stranger; go 
to him, and offer your hand — ask him how he feels 
this morning — if the vvaters benefit him; he will 
thank you from his heart, and smile perhaps for the 
first time since his arrival. How much a kind 
word from any one, will gladden the heart of a poor 
invalid at a place like this ! the most trifling notice 
which costs you nothing will be to him a blessing: 
Remember this, young ladies! forget it not, Lo- 
thario's ! 



142 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

Within a few yards of us, is another Spring, where 
the noisy servants are drawing water for the cabins. 

But there's the breakfast bell, and now all hurry 
to the hall, with sharpened appetites. 

Five o'clock in the afternoon. We are at the 
Spring again. The first bell has rung. Unlike the 
gathering of the morning, they are coming in merry 
groups, all are wide awake. The robed bachelor 
of the morning, is now the gay Lothario. The 
veiled female of that hour, is now the attended belle 
at the Spring. 

The crowd is approaching from all the walks. 
The ladies, some with parasols, or a light kerchief 
over their heads — some on the arms of gentlemen — 
some walking alone, or in parties. Here comes one 
large gentleman with a lady on each arm, his wife 
and wife's sister, or he is an uncle with two nieces, 
but his convoy is too large to enter between the 
pillars, and he detaches one, who is joined by an 
acquaintance, to whom the large gentleman smiles 
a vote of thanks. 

The Spring is surrounded, there are but two dip- 
pers and many have to wait, which time is pleasantly 
filled up with lively talk, and the place resounds 
with the merry ring of some gay hearted laugh. 

The belles are here, and the beaux are not far 
off. Apart, you hear the remarks of the bystanders, 



SKETCHES OF CAARACTER. 143 

on the beauty of some fair drinker, and the admira- 
tion of the distant gazers. Look at her, says one, 
how surpassingly beautiful. See — 

" She drinks — she drinks ; behold the matchless dame ; 
To her 'tis water — but to us 'tis flame." 

The ladies are dressed for tea, and many of them 
will go afterwards to the ball room in the same 

attire. 



By special invitation we were present at an en- 
tertainment given at the Wolf, in honor of the advent 
of the hunting season on the same evening. 

Who has been to the White Sulphur and not heard 
of the "Wolf?" it is almost as old as the Alhambra, 
and quite as celebrated in its way. It is a castle 
also, after its own style of architecture, and stands 
on the borders of Wolf Hill, and joins the row of the 
same name, and commands the finest view of the 
surrounding scenery and the mountains. It is orna- 
mented with two piazza's, or as a late Col. in the 
army used to say, it has a "Pizarro" in front, and a 
"Portorico" in the rear. 

This is the residence of Nimrod and the fox- 
hunters. The apartments are decorated with the 
trophies of many a successful days' sport, in the 
branching antlers of stags — brushes — bearskins — 



144 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS, 

and a great variety of fire-arms — hunting dresses — 
and bugles — which are hung around. 

The party on this occasion numbered about twenty. 
The firing of a gun from the front door, (something 
new) was the signal that all was ready — and to 
notify absent guests who were expected, to be forth- 
coming. 

The table was spread with a most inviting repast, 
the delecate productions from the limits of twenty 
miles : The noble deer was there before us, the 
spoil of the morning, in every shape in haunch, in 
stew and in stake — and barbecues and strange 
dishes, all novelties to a city man. In the centre of 
the table was something peculiar — it's name is no^; 
uncommon, mint-julap, but we had never seen one 
like this. The tumbler, if it can so be called, was of 
half gallon size, frozen on the outside, and so rich 
Wjere the contents, the green herb was actually 
sprouting from the surface, or else very ingenously 
placed there. The top was ornamented with flowers. 

to make it more insinivating, as Capt. observed 

who sat near me. This was passed round to be 
looked at, various times, but it still appeared as 
original and as fresh as at the beginning ; or magic 
changed the glass. 

The enjoyment and merriment were rare — the 
characters were original — the stories were new^ and 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 145 

good — and the songs were new; the traveller is 
seldom favored with such a treat. Claret was the 
general drink I believe among the Fox-hunters of 
old, but Hock appeared to be the favorite beve- 
rage here. And among the many sparkling songs 
was the following, which was dedicated to the 
virtues of Hock : 

Away with all grief — 

And let us be merry, 
And fill up the bumpers with wine ; 

But let it not be 
With Madeira or Sherry — 

But Hock ! give us Hock ! 

Sparkling Hock! from the Rhine. 

For Hock is the wine — 

And it comes from the Rhine — 
From the land of old legend and song ; 

And drink as we may 
The heart rises gay — 
As night with her shades, and her joys flies along. 



13 



146 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

When we drink of its nectar — 

The fancy in dreams, 
Wanders away to the soft flowing streams : 
To the land where the maidens 
Are tilhng the vine — 
And pressing the grape 
On the banks of the Rhine. 
And now let it be — 
Thro' this land of the free : 
Far and wide on her bright banners spread : 
Wliile beauty shall shine — 
That Hock is the wine ; 
Thro' summer and winter 'till youth shall have fled. 



It was now late — and the serenadcrs being 
announced with their music, the party broke up, 
many of them to accompany these important cha- 
racters on their rounds, while the author of Peter 
Simple and myself, made our way to Georgia Row. 

Phrenology thrives well at the Springs, not because 
it is the only head profession here — but from there 
beuig so many persons at all places like this, who are 
very wilhng sometimes, to be made pleased with 
themselves when the cost is so little. 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 147 

Several of the disciples of the science of Combe 
and Spurzheim, were on the ground during the sum- 
mer. I attended the lecture of one at the ball room. 
The author after expatiating largely upon the vast 
benefits arising to mankind from the art, blindfolded 
himself, and said he was ready to pronounce upon 
the head of any well known individual present. 

A little boy with a large head was sent up — he 
mounted the chair, and science began " remarkably 
fine head — the organs are very prominent — 
benevolence very large — I should say, he was a 
man whose whole course of a long life had been 
devoted to charitable objects — " here the audience 
smiled, and the little girls tittered, and the youngster 
came down ; and the lecturer went on to say, that 
he would examine heads that evening ; and furnish 
characters from dinner until dark at one dollar each. 

I never would throw a pebble in the way of 
science, and Phrenology no doubt is a very pleasant 
belief, for those who have flattering developments. 



"Old Charley" is a character who must not be 
forgotten, for he is a grand caterer of the mess-hall, 
and a great killer of sheep ; besides which he fills 
many important offices. He attends at the * Wolf,' 



148 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. 

on great occasions, and is the grave-digger, par 
excellence ; whenever that service is required, and 
he often complains that his spade gets rusty, so few 
persons die here. He has performed many won- 
derful feats in his way; such as beating the best 
marksmen of the south and west, even some of those 
who have shot with Colonel Crockett. He has rode 
from the White Sulphur to Union, and bai^k, be- 
tween sun down and dark, to use his own words ; 
and he boasts of having taken in the knowing ones, 
when horses were the trade and good bargains were 
to be had. 

He has a red glassy eye, which he shoots at you 
sideways, with a very meaning expression ; and the 
boys and old women of the farms say he is a conju- 
ror; no wonder, when he has been seen to come 
from the direction of the grave yard at hours w^hen 
but few else were stirring. 

He converses very freely sometimes, and when- 
ever the conversation is military, he has a tale about 
having seen " forty thousand Britishers at the bom- 
bardment of Fort McHenry, in 1809," and he will 
go over the whole battle very correctly and graphi- 
cally, according to his own notion. 

He will no doubt live a long time yet, and then 
disappear very suddenly, as most conjurors gene- 
rally do. 



SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 149 

Duncan is a hero, and I had almost forgotten 
him, though he never forgets the lodgers in Alaba- 
ma Row, which is his province, and so faithful and 
attentive that he never leaves it. Georgia Row is 
only a short distance off; but he knows about as 
much of its precincts as he would of that state, if 
questioned. 

He boasts of Scotch descent ; and has the twang 
on his tongue: this perhaps, accounts for his super- 
stitious dread of the Jack O'Malanterns wliich are 
seen about the Spring of dark nights : he calls them 
great misleaders. 

Duncan expects a rich harvest next summer at 
the White Sulphur. 



13 



APPENDIX 



153 



APPENDIX 



The White Sulphur Springs, owned by James 
Calwell, esq. in the county of Greenbriar, Virginia, 
are 260 miles from Washington, and 200 miles 
from Richmond. 

Travellers to the Springs from the North gene- 
rally come by the way of Washington, where they 
take the steamboat to Fredericksburgh 60 miles. 
The remaining part of the journey is by land travel 
over a very good mountainous road for the last 100 
miles of the route. Travellers by the public stage 
reach Charlottesville at the close of the first day 
after leaving Washington, passing through Staunton 
on the next; breakfasting at the Warm Springs on 
the morning of the third day, and arrive at the 
White Sulphur the same evening. 

The Warm Springs are forty miles this side of the 
White Sulphur on the same road. The Hot Springs 
are five miles beyond the Warm. The Red Sul- 
phur is 45 miles from the White. The Sweet 
Springs are sixteen miles from the White. The 



154 APPENDIX. 

Salt Sulphur is 270 miles from Washington, 25 miles 
from the White Sulphur ; 22 miles from the Sweet 
Springs; 16 miles from the Red Sulphur, and 60 
miles from the Hot and Warm Springs. 

The traveller enjoys even in the warmest days of 
July and August, a refreshing breeze during the 
morning and ev^ening; riding generally from four 
o'clock A. M. until nine p. m. The time occupied by 
private conveyances from Fredericksburg to the 
White Sulphur in six days. 



APPENDIX. 155 

The following Extracts are taken from a late 
English work, by Edwin Lee, of Cheltenham: — 

"The class of Sulphurous Waters is one of the most im- 
portant and efficacious in the removal of many intractable 
diseases. The sulphur exists most frequently in combination 
with hydrogen gas, on which account these waters in general 
do not bear exportation. Carbonic acid gas and various 
salts, sometimes in large quantities, also enter into their 
composition. As they are exceedingly stimulating, their 
use requires much caution and discrimination, especially in 
weak persons of an irritible and nervous temperament, and 
in those disposed to congestion of the brain or lungs, or to 
hemorrhagic affections. Their action varies according to 
the manner of their exhibition, and to the peculiarities of 
individual cases. Used in the form of both their primary 
operation is on the skin increasing the activity of its capillary 
circulation and secretion, and on the system : their operation 
upon the mucous membranes and viscera being consequent 
to their action on the surface. 

"Internally taken, they act primarily upon the mucous 
membranes of the stomach and bowels, of the air passages 
or urinary organs. According to circumstances generally 
exciting the secretion of bile, and abdominal venous circu- 



156 APPENDIX. 

lation : thus their sensible operation is aperient, diaphoretic, 
diuretic, or expectorant, according to the manner in which 
they are used, the constitution and disease of the patient, the 
nature and quahty of the saUne substances they contain. 
They may generally be employed with advantage in some 
atonic conditions of the circulation, especially of the abdomi- 
nal venous system giving rise to piles, and hephatic obstruc" 
tions; in affections of mucous memberanes accompanied 
with increased secretion, as chronic disease of the urinary 
aparatus with mucous discharge, and chronic pulmonary 
catarrh. In cutaneous and rheumatic affections, they fre- 
quently prove more efficacious than any other class of reme- 
dies. Among the most powerful virtues of this class of 
Europe, are those of Aix La Chapelle, Baden near Vienna' 
Harrowgate and the Pyrenees. 



APPENDIX. 157 



ACIDULOS SPRINGS. 



" Under this head many writers on mineral waters place 
all those springs which contain a large proportion of free 
carbonic acid, They are for the most part cold, very spark- 
ling, and effervescing without smell, of a sharp piquant taste, 
and soon lose their properties by exposure to the atmosphere. 
Their operation is cooling and refresliing, and at the same 
time exhilirating, altering the quality of the secretions of the 
alimentary canals and kidneys, and increasing their quantity. 
These waters are very commonly taken either pure or 
mixed with wine, as an ordinary beverage, and are not un- 
frequently exhibited in febrile and inflammatory complaints. 
They sometimes, however, prove too exciting, producing 
head-aches, heaviness, confusion of ideas, with general 
agitation and sleeplessness ; but are highly useful in many 
cases of dyspepsia, nervous affections, with the character 
of relaxation or torpor, pulmonary complaints, and diseases 
of the urinary organs. The sweet water is perhaps the best 
and most familiar water of this class." 

Under the above head may be classed the Sweet 
Springs, in Monroe county, Virginia, which has 
been described in the preceding chapter. 



14 



158 APPENDIX. 

SALINE APERIENT SPHINGS. 

" This class of Springs is distinguished from others in 
containing as a predominating ingredient sulphiate of soda, 
(Glauber's salt) or sulphate of magnesia, (Epsom salts) 
which sometimes exists in large quantities ; the other mi- 
neralizing substance^ exist in comparatively small propor- 
tions. Some of these Springs are very gaseous and of 
a high temperature, others are cold and contain but little 
gas. The Hot Springs are usually energetic in their action 
and exceedingly exciting to the system, generally stimula- 
mulating the vascular aparatus, and increasing the secre- 
tions. The cold ones are antiphylogestic, cooling, and 
aperient purgative, or diuretic, according to the quantity 
taken. They usually bear exportation well, and are 
less objectionable than the majority of mineral springs 
in states of vascular phethora, febrile affection, and conges- 
tion. Artificially prepared they are nearly as efficacious 
as the natural waters, especially the imitations of those 
which contain but little carbonic acid gas, manufactured 
Epsom, Seidlitz or Cheltenham salts are but little inferior 
in efficacy to those procured from the springs themselves, 
and are very commonly usedjin the ordinary practice of medi- 
cine. Seidlitz is a village in Bohemia, celebrated on account 
of its bitter purging water ; the predominating salt, is the 



i 



APPENDIX. 159 

sulphate of magnesia ofjwhich there are more than one hmi- 
dred grains to the pint, as it is not gaseous, the water does 
not lose its properties by being carried to a distance, and is 
much exported." 

The waters of the white Sulphur Spring, have 
been bottled in large quantities during the present 
year, and exported to all parts of the United States. 

The waters of the Red Sulphur are also in pro- 
gress of being bottled by a gentleman, every way 
competent and active, and \\dll be sent to any part 
of the Union, at a fair rate of expense. These 
several waters it is said, preserve their virtues and 
taste for any length of time ; the bottles being carefully 
sealed with wax, at the moment of being filled from 
the Spring, 

Mineral Springs may be divided according to 
fheir temperature into 

Cold - at - 65°Farenheit 

Cool - from 65^ to 77^ 

Tepid - 77° to 90' 

Warm - 90° to 98° 

Hot above - - 98° 

The temperature of the White Sulphur 

Spring is - - - - -60° Far€iL 

The Red Sulphur - - - - 54° 



160 APPENDIX. 

The Salt Sulphur has a temperature of 50° which 
is the same of those of Tunbridge, in England. 
The Warm Springs have a temperature of 97° Fa. 
The Sweet Spring water is nearly tepid at 73° Fa. 

At the Hot Springs, in Virginia, the temperature 
of the different baths verge from 103° to 106° 

They have the Gentleman's Hot Spout bath ; the 
Gentleman's Boiler or Sweat bath; the Lady's 
Boiler ; the Lady's Hot Spout bath. And in addi- 
tion to these four baths above mentioned, is the 
Pleasure bath, which is contained in an octagonal 
reservoir of thirty feet in diameter, and five feet 
deep; there are two spouts of two inches diameter 
constantly pouring streams of hot water into the 
reservoir ; the temperature of this water is between 
98° and 99° and the whole is covered by an octa- 
gonal building, furnished with a dressing room ; this 
bath is used alternately by ladies and gentlemen for 
periods of two hours. 

Baths are usually taken in the morning, two or 
three hours after drinking, at a temperature between 
86° and 96°. They increase the activity of the 
cutaneous circulation and secretion; perspiration 
being not unfrequently produced. They have also 
a sedative effect on the nervous system ; the pulse 
becomes slower while in the bath, and a tendency 
to sleep frequently supervenes. Acting on the 



APPENDIX. 161 

surface of the body, they produce a revulsion from 
the internal organs, promoting their secretions, and 
diminishing visceral congestion. If taken at too 
high a temperature, baths act a^s stimulants, increas- 
ing the frequency of the pulse« 

Dr. Hunt, in his pamphlet, gives the following 
directions for using tlie v^ater of the Red Sulphur : — 

" Commence by taking one glass of water at bed time, 
and one before breakfast: after a few days, take two 
glasses at bed time, and two before breakfast; one at 
11 A. M., and at 5 o'clock, p. m. This quantity will 
generally operate freely on the bowels. If it is desired 
to act on the kidneys, increase the quaintity of water to 
three or four glasses, between a light supper and bed 
time, and the same quantity between day light and break- 
fast time ; two glasses at noon, and one or two glasses 
about 5 o'clock, p. m., taking care to exercise freely 
after drinking. 

According to Professor Rogers.: — "Gaseous contents 
in an imperial gallon — 

" Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 4.54, cub. in, 

^'Carbonic acid, 8.75. 

" Nitrogen, 4^5. 

" Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, gr. 1. 25, 
consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbo- 

14* 



162 APPENDIX. 

nate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredi- 
ents, the water contains, in considerable quantity, a pecu- 
liar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is de- 
posited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by 
a species of organic growth." 

" The Red Sulphur Water is decidedly sedative in its 
effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquilizes irri- 
tation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most 
astonishing manner. 

" It has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure 
of pulmonary diseases, and it is true, that it has a most bene- 
ficial influence in most casses of this disease; but its good 
effects equally extend to all cases of sub-acute inflammation, 
whether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kid- 
neys, and most particularly in the mucuous membrane." 

Dr. Moorman, the resident physician of the White 
Sulphur Springs, thus enumerates the powers of 
those waters : — 

" In all attacks of a Bilious j class, a few days or at the 
farthest, a few weeks use of the waters, produces the most 
salutary results. The power of this water on all affections 
of the Liver, the largest and most important secretery organ 
of the body deserves particular attention; volumes might be 
filled with details of results, most gratifying, that have taken 
place in the cases of innumerable invalids from all portions 



APPENDIX. 163 

of the country, especially of the thousands from the warmer 
regions of the south. 

In all stages of Dyspepsia; in Chronic Rheumatism; in 
Paralysis; in Incipient Calculus; in Chronic Sephilis; in 
Chlorosei; in Hemorrhoids,, Hypochondrasis ; in all condi- 
tiones Ulcer of the Extremities ; in Cutaneous Eruptions; 
in that enfeebled and peculiar condition of the system result- 
ing from the long protracted, or injudicious use of mercury, 
these waters have proved themselves most indisputably 
efficacious. 

The solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic 

inches of the White Sulphur Water, when dried at 212®, 

weighs 63.54. grains. This consists, according to Profes- 
sor Rogers, of 

Sulphate of Lime, 

Sulphate of Magnesia, 

Sulphate of Soda, 

Carbonate of Lime, 

Carbonate of Magnesia, 

Chloride of Sodium, 

Chloride of Calcium, 

Oxyde of Iron, 

Sulph. Hydrogen of Sodium, 

Phosphate of Lime, 



164 APPENDIX. 

Organic Matter, 

Precipitated Sulphur. 

The gaseous matter consists of; 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 

Carbonic Acid, 

Nitrogen, 

Oxygen. 
"As a wholesome and pleasant beverage, or as a corrector 

of thirst, the convalescent visitor may safely consult his 
own pleasure as to the time of taking the water, or the quan- 
tity to be taken. 

With such it may be used with safety and advantage at 
any time of the day; but with those in feeble health, much 
regard is due to both time and quantity. The custom that 
prevails at the fountain, of using it an hour or two before 
€ach meal, is generally coiTect with this qualification, that 
the larger quantity should be taken in the morning before 
breakfast. From two to six glasses of the water taken at this 
time, followed by smaller quantities before each succeeding 
meal, usually exerts a decided cathartic effect in the course 
of the day, and at the same time augments considerably 
the ordinary secretions of the kidneys. The effects of this 
water, like all other medical agents, are much influenced 
by the condition of the stomach and bowels, at the time of 
using it, as well as by the state of the system generally. 



APPENDIX. 165 

It therefore sometimes happens, that, in order to secure its 
full effects, larger quantities than those indicated are re- 
quired. Nor is much oppression of stomach apt to be 
experienced, by those enfeebled by disease, from much 
larger portions. So lightly does this water lie on the 
stomach, that invalids have been often known to treble the 
quantity above prescribed, without experiencing any mate- 
rial inconvenience therefrom. A slight acquaintance with 
the properties of the water, will, however, satisfy every one, 
that such inordinate quantities can be seldom necessary, or 
proper, whilst experience teaches that they are sometimes 
prejudicial. 

A serious error is frequently committed by invalids, at 
the very commencement of the use of the waters. Arriving 
at the Springs with systems morbidly excited by long or 
rapid travelling, and often with bowels obstinately costive, 
the invalid seeks the fountain, and hastily distends his 
stomach with enormous quantities of water, under the erro- 
neous notion that he is to be benefitted in proportion to the 
quantity taken, or upon the vague inference that " if a little 
is good more is better." The consequence of this procedure 
not unfrequently is a hasty determination in his mind that 
the water is unsuited to his case, " for it disagreed with him 
from the moment he took it." Under such an imprudent 



166 APPENDIX. 

procedure, it could scarcely be expected to turn out other- 
wise. In the excited state of the system referred to, the 
water should be used sparingly at first — principally in the 
morning, and due care taken, if necessary to aid its opera- 
tion on the bowels by some of the means previously men- 
tioned. 



THE END. 



W. Molineux, Printer, cor, of Ann and IVassau-strects, N. Y. 



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